Author Topic: New Pilot Ideas... (Read 11357 times)

Factory 45 · « **Reply #30 on:** November 30, 2010, 11:24:55 AM »

Thanks man...that gives me a few ideas. Now a quick ? about the stubs...are they model specific only to the pilot or is there some kind of another inner that will match? And how available are the stock axle parts...I am a little concerned with the availability of replacement parts. I dont want to ruin an obsolete stub if you catch my drift.

hoodlum · « **Reply #31 on:** November 30, 2010, 02:34:06 PM »

I have drilled the stubs more than once....Use a 3/8 bit....Anything smaller will likely break off before it gets completely through the stub....Take a good stiff rod and whack the other side out,then take a rod larger than the 3/8 hole,I used a 3/4 and knock out the stub you drilled...FYI,I drilled out the side where the brake rotor is....The tranny seal on the other side tends to fail more often,and by drilling out the other side,the axle on the failing seal side can be removed without having to take out the other one.....
After drilling,get a set screw that can be tapped into the 3/8 hole and plug it up....Use a little blue loctite on it to be assured it doesn't back out and trash your cv's....
I have looked in the past,but had no luck finding another cup that would work...You can get cv rebuild kits,but the cup isn't included...The last time I checked,you could still get axles from Honda,but they are $$$$$ Close to $500 a side......
Hoodlum

FL670R · « **Reply #32 on:** November 30, 2010, 02:48:40 PM »

Turn the FNR on its side and soak it with PB blaster for 2-3 weeks then hookup a Slide hammer to the Cup and Bang away...

Never pry on the stub or cup - You can use a couple big Muffler clamps to attach to the stub then run a couple of cables or small chains from them thru a weight to act as a slide if need be...

You only need to get one out the other you can get with a long punch later...

Good Luck and Be Patient....

Factory 45 · « **Reply #33 on:** November 30, 2010, 04:03:10 PM »

Im assuming the pb application has to be to the brake side of the FNR correct? The other side is impossible to get the penetrant to. Hey Hood...Im gonna try the soak trick first and leave the drill thru as a last resort. This is a spare FNR that I want to recondition and make mint...so I may tear it apart and check it for wear. But I see what you mean with the bolt...almost leaves it set up to do it again. But I am gonna coat this thing with anti seize grease upon reinstall so as to not get into this predicament again. I am gonna head down and set the FNR on its side and spray away. (love that PB Blaster)

hoodlum · « **Reply #34 on:** November 30, 2010, 04:44:41 PM »

Quote from: "Factory 45"

Im assuming the pb application has to be to the brake side of the FNR correct? The other side is impossible to get the penetrant to. Hey Hood...Im gonna try the soak trick first and leave the drill thru as a last resort. This is a spare FNR that I want to recondition and make mint...so I may tear it apart and check it for wear. But I see what you mean with the bolt...almost leaves it set up to do it again. But I am gonna coat this thing with anti seize grease upon reinstall so as to not get into this predicament again. I am gonna head down and set the FNR on its side and spray away. (love that PB Blaster)

Just keep in mind that sharp violent jerks give more results than pressure....You will be amazed how much it takes to get them out when they are stuck.......

FL670R · « **Reply #35 on:** November 30, 2010, 05:05:40 PM »

Not sure why you think the brake side is easier to get to but, my memory may be a little rusty here...

Here is a good thread explaining the pains you are in store for....

This one had been previously apart and was still a PITA...

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=454&hilit=stubborn+axle[/url]

Good Luck....

Factory 45 · « **Reply #36 on:** November 30, 2010, 08:40:23 PM »

The brake side is where I am going at it...the stub has a slight gap where it meets the collar.(Right where that huge brake hub nut is) The PB went down in and is sitting and doing its job for now. In looking at the brake side...the back side of the stub is exposed...meaning you can get behind it. My gears are turning and I came up with something that I think will work slick. I will send pics (or links to my FB pics) when I am ready to attempt this. THANK YOU TO ALL THAT MADE SUGGESTIONS ON THIS POST.

odypilots · « **Reply #37 on:** November 30, 2010, 09:44:54 PM »

You're welcome and good luck.

Factory 45 · « **Reply #38 on:** December 06, 2010, 05:52:54 PM »

OMG what a fierce pounding...all kinds of smashing on that slide hammer. But...THEY ARE BOTH OUT.

The suggestions from all were very helpful and I took some pics to share for the next guy. Ended up using a bearing splitter and a fabricated plate (which bent like a banana) some rugged 5/8 bolts and nuts and two slide hammers. (It laughed at me for trying to use the smaller one first) Man what a chore...glad its done. Took my partner and I about 45 min. It looks as if the unit should have been tipped on the brake side and the penetrant added to the opposite side to be effective. There are pics out there of a big gob of RTV used as a dam to puddle it in...thats what I should have done. Not a drop of that PB got anywhere near the clip when added to the rotor side...it was dry and powdered. But the rotor side did allow for the room to use something to get behind the stub so the removal contraption was effective. Once the brake side came out I blew it out with air and filled it with PB and bashed the other stub out with a mallet and brass punch. Now I have two rebuildable axles...and a good FNR to tear down and inspect. Check out the pics. Thanks again to everyone

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=36611&id=100000642033901&l=0bcc97bcce