At least the stock shocks were intended for the machine. Why spend any money if it will not improve over stock? If the compression damping is too hard, the machine will be stiff. If too soft, it will bottom too easily. If the rebound damping is too stiff, the machine will kick driving over a hole because the wheel will not drop fast enough. The machine will drop then kick off the back side of the hole. If rebound damping is too soft, you'll have a pogo stick. Damping is affected by spring rate as well. So thinking you can swap springs if the shock you pick is wrong, well that will throw the damping settings out the window. Works shocks have separate high speed and low speed compression damping. They are digressive meaning that the faster they move, the more fluid is allowed to pass, but at a falling rate. You don't want them to have a maximum shaft velocity. That would be like a belly flop on water.
Many people do not understand why car shocks are so much cheaper. I overheated my factory shocks on my off road package truck on the whoops in the entry ramp to Silver Lake dunes. While they look big, car shocks have a double body to keep their length short. The nitrogen charge in them is between the two bodies. The term mono body shock means the nitrogen is either on one end or in an external reservoir. They are better shocks.
The OEM shocks, when available, cost more for a pair than a pair of Works shocks. The OEM shocks are junk by comparison. A pair of rear Works shocks for an FL350R is some of the best money spent. The improvement in ride cannot be over stated.
