Author Topic: Whats the latest on the 600EFI transplant  (Read 11522 times)

ludedude

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Whats the latest on the 600EFI transplant
« Reply #15 on: January 19, 2007, 11:27:19 AM »
I could not get the pilot regulator to give me enough DC output and AllI could figure was that its because the 600 has a single phase AC and the pilot's regualtor is a 3 phase setup.

The charging diode is included in the starter kits wiring harness, it just clips the AC and charges the battery, it seems to do fine with keeping up to the needs of the starter and fan.

For wiring all I did was remove the key switch of the pilot and used the kits starter key switch. I used the wires there to feed back to the rear of the pilot....a red wire for for the on postion powers the fan through the pilots fuse box, so when the key is on, the fan is on..I can turn the key off to turn the fan off if I want as the kill switch is needed to kill the engine, the key does nothing, only starts and controls the fan. The red/white wire I used to trigger the starter relay, so from the fuse box it goes to the relay. I used the black and brown and black and white wires to kill the engine by tying them into the coil wires on the sled engine. I wanted to use the pilots kill switch and it's normally closed to run and the sled is normally open to run so I went this route. I used the AC regualtor left in it where it's supposed to go, then tied it into the fuse box for the lighing circuit black/brown I think...this is all from memory :P If you need more clairifaction let me know and I'll do up a schematic and make sure I get the wire colors right.

ludedude

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Whats the latest on the 600EFI transplant
« Reply #16 on: January 19, 2007, 11:31:14 AM »
Quote from: "Odyknuck"
The best thing to do is to buy the Ski-doo Starter style regulator that gives you the 12 VDC for the battery charging. I picked one up for my 700 Retrofit for about $30.00.  You could then eliminate the Pilot Regulator and just tie the Ski-doo to the wire that normally is used by the Pilot Reg and have charging and system DC with out having to rewire much at all.


Do you know what DC output the regulator will put out? I think the sleds still run their lights in AC, so I'm wondering if it will handle being fed by the lighting coils full output, or if they only handle a small load for charging. The stator on my AC engine has separate coils for each function and the ones that need DC are converted individually. There's one for the injectors, one for the fuel pump, one for the ECU, and the AC lighting coils

FL670R

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Whats the latest on the 600EFI transplant
« Reply #17 on: January 19, 2007, 12:55:32 PM »
Quote from: "ludedude"
For wiring all I did was remove the key switch of the pilot and used the kits starter key switch. I used the wires there to feed back to the rear of the pilot....a red wire for for the on postion powers the fan through the pilots fuse box, so when the key is on, the fan is on..I can turn the key off to turn the fan off if I want as the kill switch is needed to kill the engine, the key does nothing, only starts and controls the fan. The red/white wire I used to trigger the starter relay, so from the fuse box it goes to the relay. I used the black and brown and black and white wires to kill the engine by tying them into the coil wires on the sled engine. I wanted to use the pilots kill switch and it's normally closed to run and the sled is normally open to run so I went this route. I used the AC regualtor left in it where it's supposed to go, then tied it into the fuse box for the lighing circuit black/brown I think...this is all from memory :P If you need more clairifaction let me know and I'll do up a schematic and make sure I get the wire colors right.


Cool looks like we did the same thing only reversed...

I use the kill switch on the steering wheel to only turn on and off my fan...
I use the key to allow the engine to run or not...

Only problem as you stated is that Honda and Arctic Cat use different means to trigger a kill (open vs closed) so I have to turn the key to off start the motor and on to kill it...
(I'd guess you have to do the same with the kill switch right - why did you switch to the AC Key ?)

So did you wire your starter hot to the start button reguardless of the key and kill switch positions ?

I previously bought a skidoo rectifier from ebay but upon installing it last fall I could not get any DC current out of it - maybe it was shot....

I have another one from the electric start kit - two AC yellows going in 1 red DC comming out.

I guess I will hook the red thru a fuse to the battery my only concern was that it will be putting a full 12 VDC to the battery at all times even if the battery is fully charged ?

Won't that over charge the battery ?

Dennis

Odyknuck

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Whats the latest on the 600EFI transplant
« Reply #18 on: January 19, 2007, 01:42:58 PM »
FL670 the Regulator will  only charge the battery when needed. By connecting it to the Black wire (Reg enable) and the Red (Charge rate) you should be OK. It sounds like the Regulator you have left does not have an enable wire on it. I can only assume its designed to not bleed back thru it and drain the battery when motor is not running. If not you will need to tie the charging wire into your ignition switch to only be active with the switch on.

Ludedude just for clarification your saying that you have mutipal coils with individual Regulators on the Artic Cat. Do you have the Artic Cat Schematic that you could post.  I would think typically (at least on a carberated Model sled) that the Sled Regulator would be enough to handle the required current for the lights and DC devices. Typically sleds dont have the Electric start so most of them come standard with AC lighting power. You would still need the Regulator for maintaning the proper voltage to the lights so you would not burn them up at higher RPMs and be to dim at low RPMs. It would make sense that the Electric start version would be using the same AC regulation circuit with the addition of a rectifier to convert to 12 VDC with a battery charging circuit. Please note I have not tested any of my comments  in real life.

FL670R

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Whats the latest on the 600EFI transplant
« Reply #19 on: January 19, 2007, 01:55:57 PM »
OdyKnuck

Mutipal ->multiple ?

Yea switching out the regulator for a regulator/rectifier is all you need to do when you add the electric start kit to a skidoo (per the skidoo instructions)

The regulated AC still powers the lights and warmers, ect
DC only for battery and battery only for starting...

The regulator/rectifier is grounded so I guess it will not overcharge the battery.  (any way to test bleed back ?)

Lude - Just had a thought I bet you switched the key so that you could use the start position of the key to trigger the electric start correct ?
If so you should be able to use the same key to kill the motor since I assume (I know never good) that AC switch closes the circuit (thus killing the motor) when it is off - oppisite the Pilot which is open to kill

correct ?

ludedude

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Whats the latest on the 600EFI transplant
« Reply #20 on: January 19, 2007, 08:48:36 PM »
OK here goes, trying to get all the questions ;)

I used the Arctic Cat key that came with the kit becuase it has the start position on it, yes, correct, and I plan to use the pilot's starter button for my PTT button for 2-way communication, but that's another story  :P

I use the kill switch on the pilot, but I wired it into the coil wire so it works as the pilot kill switch should...there's something wrong with my ECU I think, it won't kill the engine by connect the brown and purple wires together anymore as it used to  :roll:  hence the kill switch wired into the coil wiring, I did have to have the kill switch to off to run  :P   and used the pilot key for the fan only. The hot is wired to the key switch, independant of the kill switch.

Yes the stator on the Arctic Cat contains various coils for each electrical need...you can't use a carb'd engine staor on an EFI engine because the stator does not have the fuel pump and injector coils ;) The regualtors are somewhere I dunno where..in with the stator or in the ECU. The Arctic Cat does have a voltage regulator on the AC lighting/accessory output. The electric start kit for the Cat sled ties into this, and uses a diode to charge the battery, and the battery runs the starter. The lights on sleds are very dim at idle/low rpm's at least mine an my buddy's 670 ran like that.

Did I miss anything ?  :P

Odyknuck

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Whats the latest on the 600EFI transplant
« Reply #21 on: January 23, 2007, 10:23:02 AM »
I think you covered it. I was looking at the Pilot Schematic and the Timer module is part of the lighting circuit and requires DC. Have isolated that section from the AC circuit.  Also was reviewing clutching again. I noticed that the Arctic cat and or the Ski doo driven appears to have a limited shift range. It would seem that the  Pilot driven would give you a  better top end with the smaller OD and the ability to shift down into the clutch farther. Did you and Dennis take that into consideration. Personally I would think if your going thru the trouble of the high HP motor you would want it to have a faster top end. What is the drive ratio of a sled chain box?

ludedude

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« Reply #22 on: January 23, 2007, 10:44:11 AM »
Quote from: "Odyknuck"
I think you covered it. I was looking at the Pilot Schematic and the Timer module is part of the lighting circuit and requires DC. Have isolated that section from the AC circuit.  Also was reviewing clutching again. I noticed that the Arctic cat and or the Ski doo driven appears to have a limited shift range. It would seem that the  Pilot driven would give you a  better top end with the smaller OD and the ability to shift down into the clutch farther. Did you and Dennis take that into consideration. Personally I would think if your going thru the trouble of the high HP motor you would want it to have a faster top end. What is the drive ratio of a sled chain box?


Yes I removed the timer from my circuit ;)

I have not measured the small (opened) diameters of the two, I don't need to go any faster, I just want to get up to speed faster ;) 60/65 mph is fast enough on ATV tires for me ;)

Odyknuck

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Whats the latest on the 600EFI transplant
« Reply #23 on: January 24, 2007, 07:43:57 AM »
Forgot about the sled gear box ratio. Do you know what it is.

ludedude

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Whats the latest on the 600EFI transplant
« Reply #24 on: January 24, 2007, 08:43:42 AM »
no...but I'll see if it's in the manual