Yeah I wish I had got 2 sets of the 3.875+1.125 rims...I may order another set and sell a set of the 4+2's. I honestly have not noticed a difference in stability, unless you're making the front wider than the rear, I think you're affecting handling (steering feedback = sore hands/arms...tight Ted?
) more adversely than you're gaining in stability. The rear's wider, I think that's where the stability key is. Just my opinion. I get a kick out of guys selling rims and pilots with offset rims trying to push them like it's a bonus...wider offset...more stability....really? At what cost? Steers like a tractor with the differential locked, hey but it's stable. :lol: :lol:
I want to measure my 3.875+1.125's against the stockers to see how they compare. As Livewire stated the stock rims are not measured (offset wise) the same as Douglas Wheels measures theirs. I think my center to centerline with those must me close if not narrower than the stockers.
They are a far better rim than too for the fact that they have the optional beefy inner bead on them. The normal .190's with a beadlock make for a sturdy outer setup, but leave you with a weak inner bead. We've not had any trouble yet, and hopefully won't. As the inner bead does not see near the punishment the outer does, it may not be an issue. But if I order another set, I'll be ordering the beefed up inner bead again.
Back to the +2's! I see no adverse steering ability over the stock length arms. Now maybe I would if I could drive it back to back with stock then +2's. If there is a difference it's not large enough to stand out in my mind's memory of handling. I could jump into one of the other 2 pilots, but it's not a fair comparison either, one has a bent front end, the other has minimal tread up front. I could Sinc's 4+2's with good tread on Ted's machine and run the 4+2's on mine. Ted and I both have titan 489 XT's on the rear so it should be a fairly close setup....may try that next time out if I remember.
I need to measure my wheel travel up front too. I had custom Works made. I left the mounts alone, but went with a longer shock (reservoirs, pre-load adjustable and dual rate springs) and more stroke than stock. I may have made them a tad too long as on full extension you can hear the ball joints go into bind, just as the shocks max out. But it handles really nicely, very soft...maybe too soft, I have never felt it, but a few video footage shots and still photo shots looks like it must be bottomed out. Made a huge difference in handling though. I ran the +2's with the stock shocks for awhile before I received the Works. Just the +2?s alone, even with old worn stock shocks you gain in handling. So it?s a good stepping stone. Get the +2?s then the shocks later when you can afford them, if it?s too much to do all at once.
Can?t wait to get the fully adjustable ELKA shocks
Rebound, compression and pre-load adjustable. :shock: from Elka (when asked why more expensive Elba?s over Works):
?Our shocks (compared to works) have a stronger shaft (they use 14mm we use 16mm), a more precise valving (they use springs and small balls we use a shim stack) we offer more wheel travel and more plushness in the springs. You can check on any ATV website and see what people say about the difference, our shocks will give you much more performance then theirs.?
So we?ll see and report back on that.