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91
FL583 Blog / Honda FL583 build
« Last post by Joshsol on April 12, 2020, 11:52:11 AM »
Hi everyone
My name is Josh, I am new to this forum
I am 18 years old and have just about finished building an fl350 from the ground up with a Rotax 583 and Farr (Emmanuel? please let me know which you prefer) front suspension! been an amazing journey and I would like to share what I have done and also get some advice where possible! disclaimer, I am pretty new to the whole area of building, fabricating and setting up engines, etc. (this is basically my first project) which is also why I would love to make a build page here so I can get advice and criticism!
I started my project last august after buying my oddy completely disassembled for $500 (from what I can tell the best deal ill find for a long time). came with the stock engine (not running), Rotax 583 (rebuilt for this project) with Farr's custom engine mount and carb joiner, stock front suspension plus Farr's custom front suspension, extra set of rear tires, and all the stock parts (except one axle was broken and hand brake cable was seized). The only thing that was bolted to the frame was the gearbox and engine mount. so began the assembly! so much fun, so interesting, and so much to learn!! (I'm sure i still have lots more of that coming my way too!). Anyway the build went smoothly. some modifying involved like making brackets to mount things and welding up the front suspension adapter. I have a stick welder that i used (I know not the best but i don't really have the budget for a new welder). the welds aren't what you would call pretty but they seem to be strong enough and as this is also a school project, my goal was to try and do everything myself. The only thing I had custom welded was the gas tank so it would fit around the 583. I have the Farr pull start mod plate but i don't think I'm going to install it. It would be nice to have pull start but i don't really like how there's only one frame tube left after the install and I would have to get it professionally welded if i want it to be strong enough. I don't want to make this post too boringly long so i will try to post pictures to show my build.
after completing my build to where i can drive it, i have some questions id like to ask if anyone out there is willing to answer:)
1. rear shocks (stock): one shock is leaking oil, the other has a bent shaft (id say 1/2 inch bent). i was going to replace the seals to stop the leak but got stuck in figuring out how to dissassemble the shocks. after assessing the bent one i thought id be better off just getting new ones. from what I've read on this forum there are 5 options. stock, Fox, Worx, progressive (413?), or atv shock and make a custom mounting system. I'm gonna exclude stock and custom setup since i don't really know much about shock geometry and how it all works. from what I've read worxs are the way to go? price? do they make all their orders over the phone? and if so what are the things i should know before calling?
2. exhaust: i have a modified (to fit in the frame) 583 expansion chamber going to the stock muffler. however the expansion chamber has a bigger size diameter hole than the stock muffler. i currently have it just pressed together and it works temporarily but I'm curious what others have done? new muffler altogether? or fab an adapter?
3. seat: i have the stock seat and it has a few cracks, not to bad though. thing is it has to be set all the way forward and I'm 6'2" so my legs don't lie flat. i would like to get a new seat that has an adjustable back or is set more upright so i can move it farther back without hitting the expansion chamber so my legs lie flat. any suggestions? this is probably something i will work on in the future (don't want to spend a whole lot on a brand new seat).
4. 2 stroke oil res: i know some people have removed the oil injection system from their 583 but i decided to keep it. is there any important tidbit of knowledge i should know as to why its better to keep or remove the oil injection system?
5. paint: my plan is to completely strip it this summer and repaint. i have used spray paint for painting all the things i have made so far but dont want to do that when i repaint. i have an HPLV gun which was given to me so i was thinking of going with that but i really don't know much about painting and which kind of paint to use. from what iv read it sounds like powder coating is the best option however that sounds expensive and i would like to do this myself if i can. any thoughts or tips greatly appreciated:)
Im sure i have more questions but i think this post is already too long so ill end it hear. any comments, concerns, questions, and tips would be greatly appreciated!. i can post more pics if necessary
if there are any technical things i should know about this forum please let me know :D
very excited to part of this community!
Josh
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Technical / new rear shocks
« Last post by Joshsol on April 11, 2020, 06:35:03 PM »
Hi everyone
I am new to this site, although it seems like an amazing source of knowledge! I am 18 years old and recently finished building an fl350 (fl583)! Its been an amazing journey and so pleased with the outcome but I have a couple questions id like to ask. my first is the rear shocks. after doing some gravel drifting, one is leaking oil, other has a bent shaft (from before I bought it) and both are probably low on oil as I can compress them standing on the back of my oddy (although I do have a 583 Rotax so that would add more weight). Anyway i was going to replace the seals but after looking at the bent shock I'm thinking best thing to do is replace the shocks and from other threads it sounds like Worxs are the way to go? could someone please shed some light on which Worxs shocks are the ones everyone uses and how much approx they would be? I've heard $400? I've also read mixed comments on the progressive shocks. does anyone recommend them are is better to just bite the bullet?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks
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Odyssey FL250 / Re: FL250 won't start
« Last post by jhornet on March 31, 2020, 06:03:49 PM »
Managed to get that screw tightened, but now the weight won't move when I hit the gas, so the clutch never grabs the drive belt.

Anyone?
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Odyssey FL250 / Re: FL250 won't start
« Last post by jhornet on March 31, 2020, 12:12:22 PM »
UPDATE:  A couple of backfires, now gas is leaking from one of the overflow tubes.

UPDATE 2: It was the carb. Swapped it out with a spare and she's purring like a kitten now ;)

After I started her up I noticed some plastic pieces flopping around below the drive pulley, and the drive pulley is loose. The bolt that holds the drive pulley on just spins. What next?

Bolt on drive pulley:

https://i.imgur.com/flwZHFW.png

Drive pulley itself:

https://i.imgur.com/zqbL8dh.png

Plastic parts:

https://i.imgur.com/97rjLDB.png
95
Odyssey FL250 / FL250 won't start
« Last post by jhornet on March 31, 2020, 11:29:51 AM »
Hello team-

I have a 1982 FL250 that wont't start. It ran like a champ until about a year ago when my brother was out riding it and hit a bump knocking the battery off. After that I couldn't get it started but just figured he had pulled a ground loose so I parked it meaning to get back to it.

This FL250 has a racing head that is water cooled and a Goki starter. I just had the started rebuilt. Since it sat for a year I drained the gas, replaced the fuel filter, disassembled and cleaned the carb, and replaced the fuel filter. Thinking it may have been a clogged exhaust, I removed the exhaust but am still getting the same result. Spark is good and blue, with a new spark plug. It won't fire, even if I put starter fluid directly into the cylinder. Compression is 150 PSI. Not so much as even a cough when I press the start button.

Any ideas/suggestions as to what to troubleshoot next?
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Odyssey FL250 / Re: Electric Start
« Last post by Marty on March 20, 2020, 02:56:04 PM »
Not sure, anytime you make a change from stock there could be issues. My advice is to purchase a fl250 manual which should give guidance on stator outputs. I have a 1983 12 volt odyssey and the manual shows how to test the stator to see if it's good or not. I'd take a free Odyssey soooooo........  Hope that helps.
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Odyssey FL250 / Electric Start
« Last post by highrider98 on March 08, 2020, 12:53:50 PM »
Hi everyone.  I have recently acquired a 1977 Odyssey FL250. The previous owner installed an electric start kit, along with a 12 volt battery. When he advertised it for sale, I told him I'd  buy it if it was running. He couldn't get it going and figured it was because of the points and/or condenser.  After rebuilding the engine at an earlier time, this is when the electric start was incorporated,  his grandson rode the cart for a time, then it sat for a couple of years. Unfortunately,  with the install of the electric start,  it brought the housing within an inch of the frame so he didn't  want to drop the motor to get to the points. He GAVE me the cart! My immediate question is, could the 12 volt starting system have fried the points and/or condenser? If so, what's the cure? Thank you from a neophyte FL guy!
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Odyssey FL250 / Crank Bearings on FL250
« Last post by Marty on February 15, 2020, 06:33:03 PM »
Looking for "Crank Bearing" replacements, searched through old posts and found:

Use good main bearings. Spend the extra $10. The cheap China bearings ain't no good. Don't use them. FL250 main
bearings are part # 6306.

On my first odyssey I ordered Fl250 (ebay) Nachi bearings and received 6306-C3 bearings (C3 meaning slightly more clearance than stock 6306 bearings)
Now ordering bearings for my 2nd odyssey. Would you recommend I get Stock 6306, 6306-C3 bearings or am I over thinking this and it doesn't really matter :-\

Anyone who's rebuilt there lower end feel free to chime in! Thanks, Marty.
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Odyssey FL250 / Re: New to me FL250
« Last post by Marty on February 15, 2020, 05:40:34 PM »
If you're referring to the small rectangular opening near the bottom of the case you're good. It is sealed by the gasket so no water can into the engine itself. Not sure why it's there. Maybe to help split the case if needed.
I use 32:1 fuel/oil ratio with 2 stroke synthetic amsoil oil.
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