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Odyssey FL250 / Re: 1981 FL250 Won't Start When Warm
« Last post by LiveWire on January 15, 2021, 06:25:19 AM »
If it is acting like too much fuel, I would check the fuel system. I am not as familiar with the FL250 as the 350 and Pilot, but I assume it also uses a pulse fuel pump. If there is a tear in the diaphragm they leak fuel into the crank case. If the leak were small, the engine might burn it off as it runs. It might pool right after being shut off. I am not proposing that is the problem, just as an example of how it might only occur on a restart.

I would also check the compression with a gauge. If just on the verge of getting too low, gaps open up when warm.
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Odyssey FL250 / 1981 FL250 Won't Start When Warm
« Last post by JiveTurkeyJim on January 14, 2021, 04:02:25 PM »
I'm not super familiar with the Odysseys and Pilots, so forgive me. I have a 1981 Honda FL250 in my shop and I have it to the point where it starts and runs great if it's been sitting for a while. But if I take it out and ride it then shut it off, it refuses to start. Seems to only happen after it has been running for a bit. It's acting like it's getting too much fuel. Choking it does not help. I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks.
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Odyssey FL250 / Re: Had spark! Now nothing
« Last post by LiveWire on January 13, 2021, 08:55:10 AM »
Glad to hear you got it worked out.
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Odyssey FL250 / Re: Had spark! Now nothing
« Last post by OddCacrazyone on January 08, 2021, 07:23:21 PM »
Seems to be the connection between the pulse trigger and the CDI was loose...not shorts... just not connected.
The energy was being stored up with no where to go! Doh! Thanks for explaining how it works!
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Odyssey FL250 / Re: Had spark! Now nothing
« Last post by LiveWire on January 06, 2021, 06:07:13 AM »
If it was points, I would say to check if they were out of adjustment and not opening. The way IDI (points, automotive) work is the coil is saturated and spark occurs when power is removed. With a CDI ignition, the coil is lower impedance and will charge quicker. The spark occurs on the charge instead of the discharge. Maybe it is just not charging up the coil fast enough to cause spark. That leaves the charge in the coil. With a couple of cranks, it charges enough to spark on the discharge when you pull the wire.
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Odyssey FL250 / Had spark! Now nothing
« Last post by OddCacrazyone on January 05, 2021, 07:28:07 PM »
1983 FL250 completely stock!
Went to start her up and nothing! No spark!..... here we go!
Checked ignition stator winding and pulse pickup 240 ohm and 38 ohm.
Checked wires for shorts.....nope! Checked to see if kill switch was ON ... good to go!
Ground on coil...yup!

Here is where it gets weird ...if I pull a couple of times on pull start then pull the wire off the coil wire trigger..
It sparks at the coil trigger plug and at the spark plug laying on the cylinder head!
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Odyssey FL250 / Re: Tuning up a new FL250 Ody rebuild
« Last post by Marty on January 02, 2021, 05:45:44 PM »
Might have to look into one of those GM LS2 coil packs for the FL250 ;D  Yeah, I rebuilt two windsor 351's on a cruiser. Might change over from points but knock on wood so far so good. Have two FL250's and both run wet so come Spring time may see me jetting/plug chop etc. Other one is CDI, so just need to get this one running well enough to perform testing. Probably try another BR7ES even though I don't think that's the problem. The other thing is the FL250 coils have a built in condensor which is riveted and soldered in. Hate to throw more parts at it but if I can figure out what size condensor this used I can drill out the rivets and replace. If not, might have to replace as a unit. I'll update as I go. Thanks :-\
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Odyssey FL250 / Re: Tuning up a new FL250 Ody rebuild
« Last post by LiveWire on January 02, 2021, 02:53:40 PM »
A 350 uses BR9ES stock. The hotter/colder description sometimes makes people think hotter = better. A colder plug means it sheds heat from the electrode to the head faster. So an FL350 that runs hot, needs a colder plug. I run a BR8ES in a water cooled head. There should be a wet line about half way up the strap. If all dry, plug is too hot. If all wet, plug is too cold. I doubt it makes much difference at start up.

You can burn things out if you run non-resistor plugs when required. Plus, the voltage drop across the resistor will produce heat. That might help with starting.

Points annoy me. I don't have FL250s, but I have a garden tractor modified  for pulling that has them. I plan to convert that to a GM LS2 coil pack and a custom controller with adjustable advance curve I am building. The spark from those packs is so powerful, it looks like a barrel. It gets wider in the middle.
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Odyssey FL250 / Re: Tuning up a new FL250 Ody rebuild
« Last post by Marty on January 02, 2021, 02:39:19 PM »
Just to make things interested I decided to multi test my sparkplugs. The (2) BR7ES spark plugs tested out at 4.55 & 4.10 stem to electrode, stem to ground was open and ground to ground stem was closed or 0.00. (1) BR8ES spark plugs tested out at 4.34 stem to electrode, stem to ground was open and ground to ground stem was closed or 0.00. (1) BR9ES spark plugs tested out at 4.06 stem to electrode, stem to ground was open and ground to ground stem was closed or 0.00. The only different readings I got were on the non-resistor versions (2) B7ES spark plugs tested out at 0.00 or closed stem to electrode which makes sense since there are no resistors in them, stem to ground was open and ground to ground stem was closed or 0.00.  Are the B7ES plugs ok to use since the resistor version is called for in the manual? Well since none of these spark plugs failed and the resistance readings between the 7, 8 and 9 series were closer than expected now I'm wondering why no spark on the 7 series at least towards the end of my testing! Well either way I learned a lot about testing spark plugs!!!
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