Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Marty

Pages: [1] 2 3
1
Odyssey FL250 / Re: 83 fl250 engine for sale
« on: March 04, 2021, 03:25:36 PM »
 ??? You guys realize this thread is about 8 Years old!  ;)

2
Odyssey FL250 / Re: 1981 FL250 Won't Start When Warm
« on: February 04, 2021, 06:16:42 PM »
No, It should still start at 119. I've seen them running between 150 - 100 psi. (100 being pretty low).  You can always put a little 2 stroke oil in the plug hole before screwing on your compression tester. If you see an increase in psi readings it's because the oil is helping to seal the rings.
On to your warmed up starting problem....... This one's tough cause they usually start easiest when their warm? If you hadn't said you are getting spark when hot I would look towards the electrical/plug side. One thing you could try is to get a new 2 dollar spark plug, gap it and swap in the new plug after it's warmed up. This would rule out a slightly fouled spark plug since you said it's getting too much fuel (running rich) and it's cheap to try.  If it is getting too much fuel only after the engine is heated up, I can't figure out why the carburetor is supplying more fuel only after being run? I would think if your floats are improperly set or your valve seat is not working you'd have these issues cold as well. When it is running do you have any fuel coming out of your carb overflow hoses? There is very little fuel pressure being built up just by spinning the motor with the recoil starter so why flooding then? Just to be sure this is a stock fl250 gas tank/pump and not gravity fed - correct?

3
Odyssey FL250 / Re: 1981 FL250 Won't Start When Warm
« on: January 31, 2021, 01:23:53 PM »
Hi JiveTurkeyJim, I would start by pulling the spark plug after you've been riding. It shouldn't be wet since it's just been running. Next ground the spark plug to the fins to make sure you're getting spark. I wouldn't have thought about fuel leaking back in through the impulse line. To test this I would shut off the fuel from the gas tank. Then pull the line going to the carb and fill with 32:1 to make sure you're carb fuel bowl is full. At this point you should have a warmed up motor with clean spark plug, fuel only coming from carburetor bowl and as long as the carb is allowing air to pulled in (should since it ran perfectly before you shut it down) it should start.

4
Odyssey FL250 / Re: Tuning up a new FL250 Ody rebuild
« on: January 31, 2021, 12:59:52 PM »
Ok so....  Rechecked points/timing etc. and all looked good. Went down and picked up yet another BR7es spark plug and what do you know I got spark! With the back end jacked up I ran this at all rpm's for about 2 weeks. Two pulls to start with choke on and one once warmed up. Also, after LiveWire mentioned the lean bog I was having at WOT I went back through the fuel system. Blew air through the fuel tank lines to make sure they were clear. Retested the fuel output on fuel pump. And finally disconnected the fuel tee to check. This was a brand new OEM Honda fuel Tee removed from an unopened package. Guess what!!! The Tee is completely open??? You can blow on any part of the tee and there is absolutely NO resistance. Sucks! Luckily I'm a bit of a pack rat and after some searching located the original 1979 Tee. This at least has some resistance when blowing in towards the check valve where as the new Tee has zero. Hoping the replaced tee might let me go to full throttle without the bog I warmed it up good for about five minutes and went for a ride. Well it did ok to about 1/2 throttle but quickly seemed like it might stall. I tried unsuccessfully to bring it up to full speed a few times but then it did stall and wouldn't restart. This time I went right to the spark plug - No spark:(   Pulled the spark plug and it really doesn't look that bad. Pretty clean overall, a bit of brown around the white resistor but not terrible. Geez, I once ran a chainsaw which died on me and when I pulled the spark plug it looked like black carbon was growing out of it (blocked muffler screen was the culprit). Anyway, I took a brass brush and parts cleaner to all the non working spark plugs and now all have spark. So I guess I'll have to pull the rebuilt carburetor. Since it's already been rebuilt, float set to manual specs. I'm hoping I can find something obviously wrong with it. Until I can figure out why its fouling out the plugs I can't do any other testing. Oh well, It's 27 degrees and snowing at the moment so looks like it will have to wait for warmer weather. Thanks, Marty

5
Odyssey FL250 / Re: Tuning up a new FL250 Ody rebuild
« on: January 02, 2021, 05:45:44 PM »
Might have to look into one of those GM LS2 coil packs for the FL250 ;D  Yeah, I rebuilt two windsor 351's on a cruiser. Might change over from points but knock on wood so far so good. Have two FL250's and both run wet so come Spring time may see me jetting/plug chop etc. Other one is CDI, so just need to get this one running well enough to perform testing. Probably try another BR7ES even though I don't think that's the problem. The other thing is the FL250 coils have a built in condensor which is riveted and soldered in. Hate to throw more parts at it but if I can figure out what size condensor this used I can drill out the rivets and replace. If not, might have to replace as a unit. I'll update as I go. Thanks :-\

6
Odyssey FL250 / Re: Tuning up a new FL250 Ody rebuild
« on: January 02, 2021, 02:39:19 PM »
Just to make things interested I decided to multi test my sparkplugs. The (2) BR7ES spark plugs tested out at 4.55 & 4.10 stem to electrode, stem to ground was open and ground to ground stem was closed or 0.00. (1) BR8ES spark plugs tested out at 4.34 stem to electrode, stem to ground was open and ground to ground stem was closed or 0.00. (1) BR9ES spark plugs tested out at 4.06 stem to electrode, stem to ground was open and ground to ground stem was closed or 0.00. The only different readings I got were on the non-resistor versions (2) B7ES spark plugs tested out at 0.00 or closed stem to electrode which makes sense since there are no resistors in them, stem to ground was open and ground to ground stem was closed or 0.00.  Are the B7ES plugs ok to use since the resistor version is called for in the manual? Well since none of these spark plugs failed and the resistance readings between the 7, 8 and 9 series were closer than expected now I'm wondering why no spark on the 7 series at least towards the end of my testing! Well either way I learned a lot about testing spark plugs!!!

7
Odyssey FL250 / Re: FL 250 wont start
« on: January 02, 2021, 01:38:16 PM »
Well good news it runs with fuel in cylinder so I'm guessing spark is good. Next try turning kill switch off so engine can't run. Put choke on and pull a bunch of times. Now remove spark plug which should be wet with fuel. If dry it means fuel is not pulling through the carburetor so can't ignite. If you don't have a manuel you can order or download one which may help. Good luck :)

8
Odyssey FL250 / Re: Tuning up a new FL250 Ody rebuild
« on: January 02, 2021, 01:26:29 PM »
OK, Haven't given up yet. Fired up on choke a few days ago - still having the bog/stall at Wide Open throttle. Installed a temporary gravity fed tank and then it refused to start. Previously had installed and set new points but the tester showed they were off a tiny bit? Reset points and it fired right up. Today with lousy weather, I jacked up the back end and removed the tires for safety. Installed and gapped a new BR7ES spark plug and it fired right up. After warmed up I ran it at all speed settings with no bog. Clear fuel line seems to show fuel filter is doing its job. Still no load so could be the difference. Ran for about 40 minutes and then died on me. Went back in to the points to check timing and light dimmed right at the mark (|F) to the left of the"F". So good. Tested new spark plug and no spark. Held spark plug in my hand and no spark:(. Rested my hand against the head while holding spark plug and mild jolt but no spark. Tested 4 other old BR7ES spark plugs against engine fins and all no spark. Tried both a BR8ES and a BR9ES plugs I had and both show spark. Both these fire right up but seem to smoke a lot so maybe cooler plugs not burning all fuel/oil? I know both the NGK cap and all spark plugs are resistor types. I've tested other fl250'S so this seems to be normal. Happy to listen to any advice:)  All grounds are great so maybe should replace coil/condensor unit (still running original 1979). Any spark plug advice?  Thanks for reading, Marty

9
Odyssey FL250 / Re: yoke swap
« on: December 25, 2020, 08:44:36 PM »
Just curious, what is a pilot yoke.... the steering wheel?  Also, yes to your question is there any alternative to the throttle lever.  Sure - you could disconnect the cable and rebuild a new throttle lever anywhere you'd like to suit your needs.

10
Odyssey FL250 / Re: honda odyssey 250/ kustom kraft knowledge
« on: November 24, 2020, 03:19:56 PM »
Hey Wozzy, That's super cool! Someone may come along to help with more info. and pricing. I have seen pictures of these modified oddysey's for racing leagues but only on the interweb. Curious does it run and also does it have rear modified shocks? Either way it's nicer than mine ;D

11
Odyssey FL250 / Re: Tuning up a new FL250 Ody rebuild
« on: November 24, 2020, 03:12:04 PM »
Wow that's interesting. I wouldn't of guessed the hanging at idle could be a lean issue! I pulled the spark plug and brought the piston up to top dead center and took a look. The piston confirms it is running rich. Also the bog sound going wide open sounds like whaaaaa which sounds lean as well. The clip, pilot and main jets are identical on both carbs. Two things I'm going to try are to bypass the check valve tee in case the carb is being over pressurized (tank fuel return is working but worth a shot). Install the other carburetor to see if there are improvements and double check the rebuilt problem one. Only I could end up with a black/oily spark plug and exhaust while running into a lean condition. :o  Oh well, I'll keep at it. Thanks for your reply, Marty.

12
Odyssey FL250 / Tuning up a new FL250 Ody rebuild
« on: November 21, 2020, 04:42:05 PM »
Throwing out a bunch of new rebuild stuff.....   I have two odyssey's a 1983 and a 1979 both kept pretty original. Both engines have been bored up to .25 oversize. I have noticed both seem to drip a lot more oil around the exhaust then they originally did. Has anyone else done a rebuild bored up a size and experienced this? My uneducated guess is that with a larger bore it is able to pull more fuel/oil into the carb. I'm mixing at 32:1 with Amsoil dominator 2 stroke oil (it has a pretty low flash point). Open to any oil suggestions.
     Another thing I noticed the exhaust schematic show a circular cardboard gasket. Tried this but found it would not fit on the stock exhaust. A quick measurement showed why. The exhaust connector off the engine is about an 1 1/4" and the pipe that connects to it slides in about an 1 1/4" so there's really no room for it to fit. Curious what others are doing.
     The 1979 rebuild I was testing out today starts right up but hangs a while before dropping back to idle. Since this was vacuum/pressure tested and passed,  I tried spraying starter fluid around gasket, seals, carburetor but didn't notice any rpm increase. So took it out for a quick spin. This one is faster than the 83"!  Next problem is runs right until you try to go to wide open throttle - then immediately bogs. The 1983, same build, runs at all speeds. Both are run with non ethanol gas and carburetors have been rebuilt. I'm guessing I'll need to recheck the carb, maybe jets? Anyway if anyone can point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it. Sorry for the long post, Marty.

13
Odyssey FL250 / Re: Leaving clutch off during initial startup/testing?
« on: November 21, 2020, 04:11:00 PM »
Thanks Livewire, After reading your post I played it safe and installed the clutch. To keep the clutch from engaging during testing I left the belt off and wrapped about 20 ft. of paracord around the clutch. This gave the clutch something to press against so it wouldn't snap all the way out. Worked really well. Thanks for your advice, Marty.

14
Odyssey FL250 / Leaving clutch off during initial startup/testing?
« on: October 20, 2020, 10:31:08 AM »
Hi guys, Finishing up a engine rebuild on a 250. I am wondering if I can leave the clutch off during the initial startup and testing? I know I can jack up the rear tires so it won't engage during testing but thought leaving it off might make it easier. Thanks for your input.

15
Odyssey FL250 / Re: FL250 won't start
« on: April 16, 2020, 02:07:03 PM »
I'm guessing that's not the stock clutch...  At least it looks different than mine. After looking at the: Drive pulley itself: picture showing it spread with the spring, the only suggestion I have is to see if you can pop it back in. When testing mine without the belt on I had to pop mine back out.

Pages: [1] 2 3