Honda Odyssey and Pilot Forum

Heres some interesting read.

Looking for a steering colum for EZ-71. He had a rut ru and bent his. He has a new shaft and parts however the column need to be replaced.

I worked up a corrected compression ratio work sheet for the 350. The spreed sheet will give you an idea of the CCR of what you have and what the changes are or effects of propossed changes. This one is for stock base gasket only.

Enter your bore 80 for 80mm ect
Enter your storke 68
Enter 125.4 for rod or your rod used in case of long rod
Enter you head volume in cc's
Enter head gasket ID
Enter head gasket crushed thickness
Enter the deck, the distance from piston crown edge to top of cylinder
Enter the piston dome volume Use bore x 0.17475 for a wiesco that will get you close.
Enter the distance from top of the cylinder to the top of the transfer ports ( if ports are all diff than average the number)
Enter the distance from the top of the cyliinder to the top of the exhasut port.

This wil give you a corrected compression ratio and will also give corrected degrees of port open via piston positions and blow down degrees. Thenn you can look down the chart and see what a ex open port change will do to CCR and blown down degrees.

This is important to log as you over bore a cylinder due to the ports roof gets lower as it is over bored due to it's at an angle. It will alos raise the CCR due to the bore is larger and the effective stroke has changed. The blown down timng also chages as the the top of the exhasut port roof lowers.

IF you enter all the correct information you can  have an idea of this effect.

First you can change the bore  than the efficitve stroke or head gasket thickness in combonation with the others and see the results. This is not an quide to use as it's just Back Yard Hacker math. But it will give you an idea how the engine is effected. This will also remove some of the guess work involved.

Remember this is CCR only and MSV is also effected which is another sheet and topic.

Tip: the stock CCR of a stock post recall ody is 6 to 1

Some have some fun and play with the spreedsheet. I'll do my best to ansawer any question as they arise. I then will add to this sheet as we look at the durations, mean line for time area and angle area for power bands.

I have locked up the sheet for now so any one can play with changing up the calculations.

I was looking around and found this. It appears to be a Chinese mini buggy two seat-er that looks like a pilot. I emailed for more info and spec. Thought it may be cool to have for the grandson.  It may give those minin buggys a run for there money at St.joe for some fun. Hopefuly it will remain running for the week. MY track record so far piolt or other wise is 50/50.  Hoping for a 70/30 at least.

From ride at St Joe:  "I had another issue which was whoop related, as I curt across to a side trail I hit a hole a big hole and almost threw me over. Upon returning to camp I noticed the rear arms ball joint was in a weird angle. I unloaded the suspension and seen the ball joint stud was loose and had woollard the arm pivot point. I drove back the truck which was in day use and in the 100 degree heat disassembled the rear upright and replaced the ball joint and was good to go. The taper I put on the pivot ( which I do not remember doing)must not have been correct or the stripped stud and nut allowed it to wooler to which I did not catch until I check over the suspension after the hit. All that held the nut in place was the cotter pin. Thank goodness for the cotter pin. The damage could have been severe. "

Well I finally got around to Fabing up a new style of arm to fix the angle of the pivot point on the upper rear arm. Since I use the stock shock mounting locations the ATVR style of arm will not work due the arm support hits the shock and few other reasons. What I did with Hacker 1 arm was to find a angle that allowed the rear assembly to move bind free with my set up. The one thing I did I did not like and found to be a problem was the the angle the pivot support was orientated with the upright. Since the arm need to be fixed due to the loose ball joint and the wollor on the arm I opted to make all new arms that corrected the problem and allow for more travel in the assembly before bind.

The new arm allows for 13.75 inches of assembly travel with my present I rod and radius rod positions before arm and ball joint bind. I fell If I tweak the adjustments I can get 15. Since these arms are replacement rods for the current set up It goes beyond my shock travel so I do not see the point to move at this time. While I was at it  took some shaft angles at full droop and extended, at droop the drive axle would be at 25 degrees and at compressed at 16 degrees For the 13.75 of travel. At full compression the the new arms touches the frame as the stock one would as well. The other thing on compression is there is no advantage to increase unless you use taller tires or wheels. At full bump ( compression ) the tire pretty much go flat and the frame is on the ground or real close. If this was increased without taking that into account sever injury could accrue. I will look into a 12" wheel and see if that number can be increased and increase sag to retain ride height if I look into a 14 to 15 " travel set up. The thing  have to consider is a shock relocate the the massive size and weight of the shock.

The new arms weight 1 pound less per side than the ATVR arm which translates into 2 pound total and 1 pound unsprung weight.  The new arm is Molly and uses stock frame mount points and ball joint pivot that I salvages from the Hacker 1 arms and the stock ones used to make the Hacker 1 arms.  I cut up the Hacker 1 arms to fab these in order to make a jig to make a set of full Molly with heims and bungs for adjust ability and still fit with the stock shock locations.This means I will be able to make a set for about any set up and mounting locations. The jig will have adjustability of the ball joint mounting point so I can make it work with stock/Atvr/Hacker ect. Basically move the upright were I want it. The Idea behind the heims and adjustability is to get rid of the rubber bushings in the ATVR. I wish I had the skill to make the stock type ends for durability however there no adjust ability with them.

Ok here is some pics. As always any idea are appreciated

Hey Hood you still with us. Man that was some major rain you all got. Hope you are high and dry.

Stixs did some ridding over turkey day I took some pics from the vids to share.

I'am in the great state of Tennesee and was ablible to upload the video of my test ride. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOctQLJo6R8 Hope you enjoy.