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Messages - LiveWire

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Odyssey FL250 / Re: 1981 FL250 Won't Start When Warm
« on: February 02, 2021, 04:15:30 PM »
It is not just the 6 psi. I don't know what a 250 is supposed to have, but a 350 is 138. 125 would be low enough on a 350 to cause problems. The 6psi is more the straw that broke the camels back.

If it seems like it has too much fuel, that may just be because it is not igniting it.

Odyssey FL350R / EGT Work in progress
« on: February 01, 2021, 01:52:14 PM »
Working on an EGT. It will be powered off the ignition and cut the engine if the temp hits 1300.

Odyssey FL250 / Re: Tuning up a new FL250 Ody rebuild
« on: February 01, 2021, 11:28:03 AM »
Your problem with the regulator (check tee) has been experienced by many. They are missing the spring and ball. This is why I do not use them at all. I have heard it was just a bad batch and that they were good again after that. Maybe they still pop up though. I use a regular tee and run the return line to the top of the cage and back down. That height sets the fuel pressure.

Odyssey FL350R / Re: New intake sneak peak
« on: January 24, 2021, 10:13:38 AM »
More pictures

Odyssey FL350R / New intake sneak peak
« on: January 24, 2021, 07:51:48 AM »
The billet intakes I was making were a great success. By integrating the boot and flange back into one, I can get even better blending. The blend starts right after the carb rather than after the bolt on boot. The boots will be urethane. Rather than being inside the flange like the stock intake, the plate will clamp the urethane preventing the need for a gasket. The stock style setup can separate as well.

Odyssey FL250 / Re: 1981 FL250 Won't Start When Warm
« on: January 15, 2021, 06:25:19 AM »
If it is acting like too much fuel, I would check the fuel system. I am not as familiar with the FL250 as the 350 and Pilot, but I assume it also uses a pulse fuel pump. If there is a tear in the diaphragm they leak fuel into the crank case. If the leak were small, the engine might burn it off as it runs. It might pool right after being shut off. I am not proposing that is the problem, just as an example of how it might only occur on a restart.

I would also check the compression with a gauge. If just on the verge of getting too low, gaps open up when warm.

Odyssey FL250 / Re: Had spark! Now nothing
« on: January 13, 2021, 08:55:10 AM »
Glad to hear you got it worked out.

Odyssey FL250 / Re: Had spark! Now nothing
« on: January 06, 2021, 06:07:13 AM »
If it was points, I would say to check if they were out of adjustment and not opening. The way IDI (points, automotive) work is the coil is saturated and spark occurs when power is removed. With a CDI ignition, the coil is lower impedance and will charge quicker. The spark occurs on the charge instead of the discharge. Maybe it is just not charging up the coil fast enough to cause spark. That leaves the charge in the coil. With a couple of cranks, it charges enough to spark on the discharge when you pull the wire.

Odyssey FL250 / Re: Tuning up a new FL250 Ody rebuild
« on: January 02, 2021, 02:53:40 PM »
A 350 uses BR9ES stock. The hotter/colder description sometimes makes people think hotter = better. A colder plug means it sheds heat from the electrode to the head faster. So an FL350 that runs hot, needs a colder plug. I run a BR8ES in a water cooled head. There should be a wet line about half way up the strap. If all dry, plug is too hot. If all wet, plug is too cold. I doubt it makes much difference at start up.

You can burn things out if you run non-resistor plugs when required. Plus, the voltage drop across the resistor will produce heat. That might help with starting.

Points annoy me. I don't have FL250s, but I have a garden tractor modified  for pulling that has them. I plan to convert that to a GM LS2 coil pack and a custom controller with adjustable advance curve I am building. The spark from those packs is so powerful, it looks like a barrel. It gets wider in the middle.

Odyssey FL250 / Re: Tuning up a new FL250 Ody rebuild
« on: November 25, 2020, 06:57:11 AM »
You could be lean at idle, but rich at WOT. The pilot jet and air bleed screw is idle to 1/4 throttle. The main primarily affects 3/4 to WOT. The needle is in between those. Something really common with the FL350s is since the stock pilot jet is too big, it loads up. People will drop the main and find the machine runs better. That is because it burns off the excess fuel faster. Then one day they hold WOT for a mile and burn it up.

Odyssey FL250 / Re: Tuning up a new FL250 Ody rebuild
« on: November 24, 2020, 11:21:35 AM »
It is probably more due to being freshened up than the bore size. The oil leaking is coming from the mixed fuel after the fuel is burned. I would say you might be able to jet the pilot jet size down from where it is, but that would make the dropping back to idle problem worse. That is a sign of being lean at idle. Turn the air bleed in and see if that helps. I would check your main jet by looking at the plug color after shutting down right after the bog and check plug color. If wet/black, drop the main jet size. Compare the pilot and main jet sizes in both machines and the clip position on the needles.

Odyssey FL250 / Re: Leaving clutch off during initial startup/testing?
« on: October 23, 2020, 06:59:54 PM »
Idle is probably OK. It will rev very gast and it would be easy to over rev. There will be more vibration without because the weight of the clutch acts as a flywheel.

Odyssey FL350R / Re: Hole in Bottom Case
« on: October 07, 2020, 05:39:47 AM »
I have not looked in a while, but there were quite a few spare bottom ends out there. When Honda did a recall and replaced many engines, the ones pulled out will pop up every once in a while. Looks like there are multiple sets of cases on eBay right now.

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