Honda Odyssey and Pilot Forum
General Category => Odyssey FL250 => Topic started by: 250fly on February 09, 2011, 02:13:38 AM
-
I picked up a pair of fl250s from my friend for 500, ones running good, but the other one is a different story. So far i haven't even gotten that thing to even sputter for me and my arms soar. Ive got good spark, cleaned the carb out, cleaned out the gas tank, good plug, i just dont know much about them to figure it out and so far the internet has been fairly vague. Its last OHV tags were from 96 and i got it with the plug out of it, i havent compression tested it yet,but i'll have the numbers soon. The pull start on it is also a lot harder to turn it over than my running one and i gotta pull pretty hard, any ideas? is it hard to tear one of these motors apart and easy to get gaskets and internal parts for? I love riding around on the running one and want to have the other one so me and another friend can go out and do something stupid and fast, thanks for helpin me out
-
I picked up a pair of fl250s from my friend for 500, ones running good, but the other one is a different story. So far i haven't even gotten that thing to even sputter for me and my arms soar. Ive got good spark, cleaned the carb out, cleaned out the gas tank, good plug, i just dont know much about them to figure it out and so far the internet has been fairly vague. Its last OHV tags were from 96 and i got it with the plug out of it, i havent compression tested it yet,but i'll have the numbers soon. The pull start on it is also a lot harder to turn it over than my running one and i gotta pull pretty hard, any ideas? is it hard to tear one of these motors apart and easy to get gaskets and internal parts for? I love riding around on the running one and want to have the other one so me and another friend can go out and do something stupid and fast, thanks for helpin me out
If the plug was out,I am guessing the cylinder has rust on it,and the compression is shot....It isn't any trouble to get the engine apart,and there are parts available,mainly on e-bay....If it is rusted,plan doing a complete overhaul with crank and rod bearings as well as a piston,rings,and a cylinder hone at a minimum.....More than likely a bore....
Hoodlum
-
I picked up a pair of fl250s from my friend for 500, ones running good, but the other one is a different story. So far i haven't even gotten that thing to even sputter for me and my arms soar. Ive got good spark, cleaned the carb out, cleaned out the gas tank, good plug, i just dont know much about them to figure it out and so far the internet has been fairly vague. Its last OHV tags were from 96 and i got it with the plug out of it, i havent compression tested it yet,but i'll have the numbers soon. The pull start on it is also a lot harder to turn it over than my running one and i gotta pull pretty hard, any ideas? is it hard to tear one of these motors apart and easy to get gaskets and internal parts for? I love riding around on the running one and want to have the other one so me and another friend can go out and do something stupid and fast, thanks for helpin me out
around 600$+ 2 special tools to take engine apart , just to fixe it back the engine your self labor .. like hoodlum said: your crank bearings must have rust on them + crank seals will need the be change +cylinder will need rebore + new piston+carb boot must be cracked + car kit and many other things can follow with that..! i have a engine here that did like yours mine was the crank bearings rusted out ..! the guy before me left the engine outside for 3 years with no spark plug on engine was still turning wen i got it but was it ever hard to pull. so i just got my self and other engine that was in better shape i just rebuilt, i am only missing the pull start that goes for 280$ it self on ebay very hard to get a good one 2hand..
-
I figured id have to crack that thing open even if i really didnt want to, what are those two special tools? I really like learning how to do this stuff, but is there anybetter information on engine work besides the online download manual and who do I have to talk to get that thing bored out?
thanks again you guys, I feel like i might get it running when i have the money to put into it
-
O yeah and when I pulled the engine out and look through the exhaust port,the piston, rings, and the walls were free from scratchs or rust as far as I could see and my carb boot I got so wrapped up with electrical tape its not going anywere, should I compression test it or do you think I chould just go ahead and crack it on open and see what I find.
This is also my first engine work besides my 74 beetle lol
-
O yeah and when I pulled the engine out and look through the exhaust port,the piston, rings, and the walls were free from scratchs or rust as far as I could see and my carb boot I got so wrapped up with electrical tape its not going anywere, should I compression test it or do you think I chould just go ahead and crack it on open and see what I find.
This is also my first engine work besides my 74 beetle lol
Electrical tape on the intake? Get rid of it!!!! You will have an air leak and melt the engine....Don't chance it.....Very well may be the reason it doesn't run now......Whoever had it before let it do it's damage....
-
ok i will, is there anything else i can use for sealer, cause i dodnt have a ton of money, and a new intake would be like another 70 bucks for that little piece...
-
ok i will, is there anything else i can use for sealer, cause i dodnt have a ton of money, and a new intake would be like another 70 bucks for that little piece...
the carb boot is around 90$ and the tools 1 is a HONDA FL250 ODYSSEY DRIVE PRIMARY CLUTCH PULLER honda sell that for 20$ or ebay motor.com ... and the other is a HONDA FL250,350, ODYSSEY ATV FLYWHEEL PULLER thats 20$ also at honda or ebay motor.com ..! yes you need to open crank the bearings are shot and you need to go see a machine shop near you for honing your cylinder..
-
i found a friend with a honer and a clutch puller, i cracked open the pull start and i got really confused, I looked up those tools and i dont understand how they work, the clutch puller goes on the big nut in the middle of the rotor im guess and the fly wheel is used for what? how do i hold the rotor in place while I turn it? Im sorry if im just asking a bunch of stupid questions. I cant just hold the rotor in place and turn that bolt with a 17mm wrench?
-
I was wondering is the everything reverse threaded?
-
I was wondering is the everything reverse threaded?
re hi try this service manuel it is the best i can do for you it would be to long to explaine all this stuff --> http://www.atlanticpaints.com/Manuals/PDF%20Files/ODYSSEY%20FL250.pdf :lol:
-
thanks for the good information
-
If i remember right the primary clutch tool is nothing more than a 7/8" nf bolt. it is used like a jacking bolt, because the clutch is on a tapper. you can use a small deep socket to take up the excess distance but not to small so as to not mess the internall threads on the crank end. use a spanner wrench on the outside of the clutch it should come off.
-
lol wish i would have reaqd that before i went over to the honda shop near me and picke up both of the tools. took the other one up to browns camp and saw what it could do wo
-
lol wish i would have reaqd that before i went over to the honda shop near me and picke up both of the tools. took the other one up to browns camp and saw what it could do wo
hi you are better off with the real tools .. ! and yes you can fix the air intake boot (clean boot with carburater cleaner first. than sand it with sand paper all over the rubber like 220 grid.!) then with black RTV silicone high temp gasquet maker it is the one oil and gas proof..! add like 1/8 thick all over it let stand for 24 hours and sheck it every month to see if you need to add more untill you can get a new one..! :P
-
thanks 1982, im more of a fixit if it isnt completely broke instead of a buy it new kinda guy, i took off the exhaust ,intake, and head off so far the cyclinder wall and piston look ok, but i a look into the case and saw the whole thing is packed full of mud and rust. clutch puller should be here in a couple more days and im stoked, i still havent gotten the nut holding the rotor to pop off, anyone know if its reverse thread?im also wondering if theres a special trick to getting the cyclinder out, i"ve got the four head bolts out and im wondering if theres anything else holding it on, or if the piston is holding it in place, do i have to pull straight up? lol sorry im new
-
thanks 1982, im more of a fixit if it isnt completely broke instead of a buy it new kinda guy, i took off the exhaust ,intake, and head off so far the cyclinder wall and piston look ok, but i a look into the case and saw the whole thing is packed full of mud and rust. clutch puller should be here in a couple more days and im stoked, i still havent gotten the nut holding the rotor to pop off, anyone know if its reverse thread?im also wondering if theres a special trick to getting the cyclinder out, i"ve got the four head bolts out and im wondering if theres anything else holding it on, or if the piston is holding it in place, do i have to pull straight up? lol sorry im new
Not sure if it is reverse thread or not.....For the cylinder,they can be stuck pretty good sometimes.....You may have to take a block of wood,put it against the top of the exhaust port,and tap upward with a hammer...
Hoodlum
-
thanks for the hammer idea it worked like a charm, got the clutch and rotor off and now im looking at the stator plate scratching my head, i got off the 3 screws on the plate and its not budging, any good ideas for this? lol/tear, ill take some pictures of the ugly thing once i get it cracked open, its probably going to put you guys off a bit
-
thanks for the hammer idea it worked like a charm, got the clutch and rotor off and now im looking at the stator plate scratching my head, i got off the 3 screws on the plate and its not budging, any good ideas for this? lol/tear, ill take some pictures of the ugly thing once i get it cracked open, its probably going to put you guys off a bit
hi it must be corroded there...the seal must of leak water in the back give little light tap all around the plate and pull. the mud in the bottom is rust building up from the crank, the water that was there for years...! there is 4 wires with a little rubber that hold the wire on the engine casing can hold it there a bit to here is the service for that part --> http://www.spinreel.com/12-6.jpg :idea: :D
-
hey its been a while but i got the old gummed up motor apart, and spent some time cleaning off the big chucks, the bearings were packed full of crap, well the whole case looked like it was full of old oil, dirt, and rust, i got some pictures and i was wondering if the crank and case are to pitted out
-
and this one
-
and this one
sorry to say looks like that engine was running wen the water got in it and water burn it ..! story short your engine casing will need to be change or (see if the new bearing will be hard to slip in in place if not will explain later) ok..! if the bearings fall in place easy that means you will have to buy new casings there are a couble on ebay and add news seals and bearings go to machine chop to rebuild the crank or ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/83-HONDA-FL250-ODYSSEY-FL-250-CRANK-CRANKSHAFT-/400185718289?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d2ced7611 ) + new piston with news conecting rod bearings. over size cylinder 1 size over ....! :idea:( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-ODYSSEY-FL250-FL-250-ATV-ENGINE-MOTOR-CRANK-CASES-/270699888930?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f06f88122 ) Also: seals must be installed before the bearings during reinstallation. Also:
If you put the bearings in the freezer for a while before installation they will contract (shrink)
a little due to the cold. This will make bearing installation a little easier or complete engine ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/odyssey-fl250-rebuilt-engine-assembled-motor-/320660611178?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aa8dca06a ) just add a snowmobile engine like a yamaha250cc or polaris 4 wheeler 250cc engine 2 stroke do not go bigger then 300cc
-
yeah i thought it looked pretty rough, i bet i pulled about a 6th of a cup of rusty and old crap out of that thing, i found this and picked it up, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350387731333&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT, all i need now is a new gasket set, and i was wondering if my rings look bad to you guys, i noticed that that the opening in the rings are two different sizes, the top rings cut out is a lot bigge rand slighty warn in a couple spots, not good?
-
yeah i thought it looked pretty rough, i bet i pulled about a 6th of a cup of rusty and old crap out of that thing, i found this and picked it up, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350387731333&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT, all i need now is a new gasket set, and i was wondering if my rings look bad to you guys, i noticed that that the opening in the rings are two different sizes, the top rings cut out is a lot bigge rand slighty warn in a couple spots, not good?
:shock: yes you need a new piston with rings are on them wen you buy them on ebay and i will need to see the inside of your cylinder to see if you need cylinder over size or just Rehone cylinder wall
-
The only way to know if it needs to be bored is to have it lightly honed with a rigid hone....It will hit the high spots and not the worn low spots...Even if it looks decent after the hone,it needs to be measured for out of round or taper...If any of these conditions are present,boring is mandatory....You will need new piston and rings,as well as a pin and small rod bearing....I would also be willing to bet the crank is toast....I am sure the rod big end is pitted,and the bearing is shot....Also,the surfaces where the seals ride are probably pitted as well,and won't allow good sealing....
Not sure what the cases will cost you,but in the past,I have heard of people having the bearing pockets welded and re-machined to the correct tolerance....You need a reputable machine shop to do this,as any mis-alignment will result in your main bearings toasting in short order....
Hoodlum
-
i got my new bottom end and everything looks pretty good, besides it did have a gasket on it. Found a buddy with a honer and hit the cyclinder it and sure enough it was flat, but I was wondering what kind of piston i should get for it? I dont really want to travel to far from stock and i've found a good machine shop.
-
didnt have a gasket*
-
As far as pistons go, most of my fl's have OEM. I do have one running with a Wiseco and it has been great over the years. I guess a lot of it depends on your useage. Some people want to ride them hardcore fast and furious. Others want to just ride them for fun. I haven't yet used a Sudco piston, but hear they are pretty decent. Call me weird, but when it comes to stuff like that, I just like OEM. But I did build the one motor with a Wiseco and it hasn't disppointed me. So there's you 3 to choose from....
Also, dunno where you got your new lower end, but rather than just trusting it, go ahead and replace both shaft bearings and seals. You will have to split the case to do this. In the long run, it could save you a heck of a lot of misery. Get all new gaskets for everything. Don't re-use any of the old ones.
In case you don't know, if any of the seals or gaskets on the motor are leaking, depending on what is leaking, it can lead to the machine not running at all, or running lean and burning it up. :shock:
I would go ahead and replace the boot for the carburator. If you're gonna do it, do it right man..... couls save you a lot of $$$$ in the long run.....