Honda Odyssey and Pilot Forum

You have the two lateral links, the forward link and the upper A-Arm. Are you referring to the rubber in the forward and lateral links? That is not replaceable. Honda had you replace the entire links. On my own machine, I have replaced them with aluminum tubes with heim joints.

The bushings for the A-arm are available.

It doesn't rev at all? It revs up some? If you press the throttle slowly, it increases revs until a certain throttle position? If you want to gravity feed the carb from a can to test if that is the problem, it will work. It is runs, but then runs out of fuel, it is erratic.

They are probably fine

Pictures would help to see if the parts are too rusted. I see in another post that you might be near Derek Tissinger. I would advise taking it to him if you are. He will also have used parts if needed.

I run 32:1 with a full synthetic 2 stroke oil. The 20:1 was based on lower quality oils. My biggest concern would be if the crank is rusted where the seals ride. That would tear up the seals quickly. It will suck air and blow up. If it started and ran, I am thinking the ring gear and flywheel are decent enough to continue using. As for used parts, the case halves are usually more rare than the other parts.

The site is for the '77 to '85 Odyssey

I am gauging interest in a group buy/crowdfunding on this. The U-joints have around double the cross section of the stock joints. Replacements joints will be around $35 or less each. The outer diameter of the axle is the same as stock so no clearance issues. The axles will be chromemoly. There is more material in the areas where the stock axles break. They can handle a bit more angle than stock. I am still getting pricing. I did the design a while back, but know it will be expensive to get them made.

The oil was probably over filled on the one with the issue. If you had a brand new machine with the oil at the higher level, the amount that would migrate over is quite small. Once that small amount is lost, you would still be higher than the the Honda suggested level, but below the full mark. The problem comes in if it is continually topped off. If you keep adding, the starter ring gear will pump all the oil into the starter.

The left crank case is connected into a case void at the front left of the cylinder. There is a small gap in the web of the cylinder between left and right. There is a hole from the right case void into the alternator area. All this was to save adding a separate vent for the counter balancer. There is a recall from Honda to keep the oil level in the counter balancer at the low mark. Honda also describes checking the oil with the dip stick just set in the hole and not threaded in. I thread in and set to the low mark. So even lower yet. I have never seen a worn out counter balancer bearing across not only my own engines, but many I have rebuilt for people. I have always replaced them when replacing the crank bearings since the cases are split.

Honda also added little baffles in the base gasket. If you use an aftermarket base gasket, it does not have these baffles. I suspect with the even lower level I run the oil at, the aftermarket gaskets would be fine.

Some people add a separate vent. I don't bother since I don't have oil migration issues running at the lower level. If added in the wrong spot, it pumps the oil up the vent tube anyway.