Need electrical help.... please...

[SniperMan]

Well this is it.
I have finished to put in my brand new starter, new selenoid, new ignition switch and a new battery.

But no result, the damm thing just wont start.
I have checked the wirering from the steering wheel to the back and everything is supposed to be ok.
But when i push the push start button on the steering wheel not a sound at all.

If i jump start the starter directly from the battery it's turning so he's working ok.
If i unpluged the wire from the selenoid that's comming from the the steering wheel and jump it directly to the the starter side of the selenoid, i can hear the bendix turning but the starter wont engage.

I can fix this by just adding a toggle switch from one side of the selenoid to the other but i would really like to make it work like it should.

I just don't know where to look next.
Any help here would be greatly appreciate it.

The only thing that i can think of would be a faulty selenoid but the damm thing is brand new

Tank's for any help here.

[hoodlum]

Have you checked all the grounds and connections? Is the selenoid honda or aftermarket? Does the 350 have a fuse block like the pilot? If so,have you checked your fuses?Have you checked continuity through the starter button and selenoid?It's probably a simple fix,but electrical issues can be hair pullers sometime....
Hoodlum

[Factory 45]

Looks like the most likely cause could be what they call the change switch. It is the neutral safety switch @ the shift fork on the back of the transmission. If it is sitting there dangling and unplugged...just plug it in. Buggy must indicate neutral and is grounded directly in order to crank at all. If its all plugged in and spiffy simply unplugging the switch and grounding the light green and red wire...then attempting to start will tell you if the switch is the problem.

Just to see if your solenoid and start button works you can go directly to the plug on the solenoid and jump the light green and red wire to ground and it should crank with the button. (you have then eliminated the interruption of the change switch completely)

[SniperMan]

TKS guy's i really appreciate the help.
I will check that this weekend and let you know if i sucseed.

[Factory 45]

Let us know what fixes it:)

PS...the Light green and red wire im talking about is ONE wire. Manual reps it as Lg/R on the schematic. Its Light green with a red stripe...NOT 2 wires. Just to clarify...lol. Good luck...hope this helps sir.

[SniperMan]

It worked Factory45.
Tks a million times. I just grounded that light green wire and red from the selenoid and the thing came alive lol.
Now i can get to work on my u joints and i will be done (i think) with all my mechanical problems.

[Factory 45]

Awesome...to make the system work as designed try and see what is causing your issue. The swich should provide ground when its in neutral. If the cables are out of adjustment...it could make the switch not work. Other causes could be bad switch...or broken wire (Lg/r somewhere in the harness) But for now you got her to crank and run...saweet Just remember that it will start in fwd or rev with the solenoid jumped.