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[ttyR2]

One of the other message boards I frequent has a running post where folks put comments in about what they did with or to a vehicle they own. I thought It'd be interesting to hear snippets of what projects you are working on or things you finished with your FL350.

In my case, I finished assembling the starter rebuild and installed the starter in one of the FL350's. Talk about a pain in the butt. I didn't want to pull the engine so ended up dropping the fuel tank, pulling the left rear wheel off, unbolting part of the engine skid plate, pulled the PTO pulley, left the belt and driven pulley installed, removed the carb, and was ultimately able to pull the starter out the right side. A three hour project from starting the assemble the starter until everything was back together.

[SniperMan]

Man you just answer a part of some questions i was having about that starter thing.
The FL350 that i bought is in running condition (well lets say more or less) but there's no starter on it..yet.
I ordered one, that i'm still waiting for but looking at the space we have to work there i was wandering if i would have to pull the engine out to put my new starter in there.
One thing doe, why did you drop the gas tank she's on the opposite side of the engine where the starter is located

As for me well i've just received friday, my order from After Shocks. (tks guys by the way, i love you're custommer service.I still need lots of parts to finish my restauration project and you're on the top of my list)

unfortunatly here it's rainning as hell today and i dont have a garage to work on my FL350 so the new aluminum gas filter is in as well as my new UNI air filter unit but the front wheel bearings will have to wait after tomorrow i'm afraid.

[ttyR2]

You can't reach the bolts on the pull-starter side of the engine without pulling the tank.

Pulling the tank is pretty easy, I ended up pulling the starter out that direction, up through where the carb was. The brake disk partially blocks the starter on the left side of the engine and you can't move the starter enough to get the gear reduction snout out of the engine case. The PTO clutch covers two of the bolts that hold the starter bracket on.

[ttyR2]

Ordered a new 80mm Wiseco piston kit off ebay. Also...a used, hopefully good, starter gear bendix assembly. The one in the second starter I'm rebuilding sounds a bit rough and the bendix doesn't like to retract on it's own. Yeah...the engine would probably spin it enough to make it disengage, but I'm not gonna risk it, what with what an utter PITA pulling the starter again would be.

[SniperMan]

ok.... the new front wheel bearings are in, i'm not sure though if i did not gooff here a little.
There's a metal sleve between the two bearings, am i suppose to pack that area (between the bearings) with grease or i just leave as is ?
Because i didn't put any grease in there, so i was wandering if i'm gona have to reopen the damm thing.

[ttyR2]

I'm not familiar with the Odyssey spindles, but normally on hubs, you fill the cavity inside the hub with some grease so that the grease in the bearings doesn't migrate out of them and into that cavity, letting them run dry.

[SniperMan]

You can't reach the bolts on the pull-starter side of the engine without pulling the tank.

Pulling the tank is pretty easy, I ended up pulling the starter out that direction, up through where the carb was. The brake disk partially blocks the starter on the left side of the engine and you can't move the starter enough to get the gear reduction snout out of the engine case. The PTO clutch covers two of the bolts that hold the starter bracket on.

Ok... now my gas tank is off, carb to.
 But i just cant pull out that damm thing that is in front of the starter bracket (the thing that look like a boxing ring side bell)

where there's those two little bolts that need to come out from the starter bracket. Do i need a puller for that PTO i think it's call??? I have remove the 17 mm bolt in the middle of it, but the big nut that the bolt was screwed trhue wont move a bit.

Do i also need to remove the rear disk brake to get even more room or it should pass. ?
TKS for any help here.

[ttyR2]

Yep! Only way to do it is pull the PTO pulley. They are buried behind it.

Dunno why Honda did that. It's an obvious design oversight. Fortunately, if you rebuild the starter right and vent the balancer gear case properly, you shouldn't need to take it apart for a long time.

The puller (just a long specialized bolt) that fits my 1994 Polaris XLT sled also fits the Comet 102C clutch. Not sure if it'd work on the OEM Honda clutch, if that is what you have.

[LiveWire]

The puller for the stock clutch is shorter than the one for a 102C.

http://www.aftershockmotorsports.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_5&products_id=49

[SniperMan]

Well i guess that my FL is so old that i finally follow thw instructions of the shop manuel and went from the side of the clutch. At the end i didn't even need a puller, i guess that's probably due to lots of vibrations along the years. But anyway, the damm thing fell in my hand just by pulling lighhtly on it.
The rear brake bracket, caliper and disk are also out of the way.
The new starter now want's to go in it's place, i still have to go around some shops here, to try to find a replacement o'ring for the starter and two bolts for the rear starter bracket.
Then i will see if i will have enough room to put those damm two bolts in the bracket, without having to remove the PTO thing.
Oh!!! and i will have to fix to, two bolts that gave away in the frame on the battery rack.

[SniperMan]

ok, it's finally done (hellll yeahh) the new starter is in and i had just enough space to put back the two bolts on the starter bracket.
Tomorrow i will rewire the hole thing and see if it comes alive lol. I got to admit though that the electrical side is definitly not my strong side but looking at it, it doesn't seem to be to complicated.

I dont have for now an ignition switch  (previous owner took the hole thing out and simply bypass the starter wires, so the ody will simply start by putting the on off switch on the steering wheel at on and started it with the pull start crank)   but for now i will wired it with just a toggle switch.

[ttyR2]

If the killswitch isn't actually wired to turn off all the power (not just shut the engien off), the battery will run down.

[ttyR2]

Received the used starter bendix assembly yesterday, as well as a new piston pin bearing, off ebay. The bendix is in a lot better shape than the one I have, so the second starter is ready to go. Now....to rebuild the dead engine.

[ttyR2]

Pulled the crankcase down to the point where I need a case splitter.

I wasn't happy at the torque levels the nuts on both ends of the crankcase. Barely tapped a ratchet to pull the nut in the stator, and the big nut came off *very* easily with a wrench after flattening out the lock washer. I'd guess they were both on with less than 15lb/ft of torque.

[kifferznew]

Ran into a huge rock, more like a boulder. Cant find new tie rods anywhere... : (