Author Topic: Rear ball joints  (Read 7587 times)

hoodlum

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Rear ball joints
« on: January 15, 2012, 12:44:25 PM »
OK Guys....We need to search a little....I have been trying to find a replacement balljoint for the rear upper a-arm,which is no longer available from Honda....Mine are not bad,but will be one of these days....I can't find anywhere that gives spec sheets on balljoint dimensions....Does atvr use a stock joint for their rear lt arm or something else?Modifying the rear arm or knuckle is not out of the question,but not really desirable either....
Hoodlum
« Last Edit: January 15, 2012, 12:54:49 PM by hoodlum »

hoodlum

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Re: Rear ball joints
« Reply #1 on: January 15, 2012, 02:05:41 PM »
On a second thought...Would it be easier for the arm to be modified to accept a threaded balljoint,and the hole in the knuckle where the ball joint is, fitted with a plug that has a tapered hole in it? This would allow many more options.....Or,a stud welded in the arm,and a uniball fitted into the hole in the knuckle.....Then again,how would the uniball be attached in the knuckle....
Just thinking....
Hoodlum

LiveWire

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Re: Rear ball joints
« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2012, 07:50:12 PM »
I bought some hoping they would work out. It turns out they are .5mm smaller than the ones in the Pilot. The taper on the stud is the same. They would  locate the knuckle the same relative to the arm. The only problem is the diameter being small. It might be possible to use with .010" shim stock wrapped around it.

hoodlum

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Re: Rear ball joints
« Reply #3 on: February 27, 2012, 06:08:17 AM »
Was the balljoint threaded or a press in? My thoughts are to use a threaded joint and then make a threaded sleeve to fit the knuckle to accept the joint....This would make changeing much easier.....

LiveWire

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Re: Rear ball joints
« Reply #4 on: February 27, 2012, 08:00:45 AM »
It is press in. My concern on a thread in is by the time you make the sleeve thick enough and account for the threads, I think the ball would have to be smaller.

The ones I tried have the lip and snap rings on the opposite sides. Where I had to take the knuckle off the machine and put on the press to remove the old joint, I think I could use a gear puller on this other one with the knuckle on the machine.

hoodlum

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Re: Rear ball joints
« Reply #5 on: February 27, 2012, 06:08:07 PM »
Was the distance between the snap ring and the lip the correct thickness?I have a good machinest that can fill in that much and re-mill it to press fit.....

LiveWire

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Re: Rear ball joints
« Reply #6 on: February 27, 2012, 06:27:47 PM »
Yes, that was the same.

hoodlum

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Re: Rear ball joints
« Reply #7 on: March 02, 2012, 05:23:34 AM »
Sent you a pm.......Did you get it?

LiveWire

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Re: Rear ball joints
« Reply #8 on: March 02, 2012, 08:32:39 AM »
No, I didn't. I sent you one to see if it is a system issue. Send me an email though instead.

hoodlum

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Re: Rear ball joints
« Reply #9 on: March 02, 2012, 03:55:14 PM »
Mail sent

funinoly

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Re: Rear ball joints
« Reply #10 on: August 26, 2013, 08:50:34 PM »
So did you find a solution? I will be posting later with an issue.

hoodlum

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Re: Rear ball joints
« Reply #11 on: August 27, 2013, 05:21:22 AM »
« Last Edit: August 27, 2013, 05:25:37 AM by hoodlum »

funinoly

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Re: Rear ball joints
« Reply #12 on: August 27, 2013, 07:45:58 AM »
is it a direct replacement?

hoodlum

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Re: Rear ball joints
« Reply #13 on: August 27, 2013, 09:45:20 AM »
Yep

funinoly

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Re: Rear ball joints
« Reply #14 on: August 27, 2013, 09:58:51 AM »
great news