Fl250 starting troubles

[250fly]

thanks 1982, im more of a fixit if it isnt completely broke instead of a buy it new kinda guy, i took off the exhaust ,intake, and head off so far the cyclinder wall and piston look ok, but i a look into the case and saw the whole thing is packed full of mud and rust. clutch puller should be here in a couple more days and im stoked, i still havent gotten the nut holding the rotor to pop off, anyone know if its reverse thread?im also wondering if theres a special trick to getting the cyclinder out, i"ve got the four head bolts out and im wondering if theres anything else holding it on, or if the piston is holding it in place, do i have to pull straight up? lol sorry im new

[hoodlum]

thanks 1982, im more of a fixit if it isnt completely broke instead of a buy it new kinda guy, i took off the exhaust ,intake, and head off so far the cyclinder wall and piston look ok, but i a look into the case and saw the whole thing is packed full of mud and rust. clutch puller should be here in a couple more days and im stoked, i still havent gotten the nut holding the rotor to pop off, anyone know if its reverse thread?im also wondering if theres a special trick to getting the cyclinder out, i"ve got the four head bolts out and im wondering if theres anything else holding it on, or if the piston is holding it in place, do i have to pull straight up? lol sorry im new

Not sure if it is reverse thread or not.....For the cylinder,they can be stuck pretty good sometimes.....You may have to take a block of wood,put it against the top of the exhaust port,and tap upward with a hammer...
Hoodlum

[250fly]

thanks for the hammer idea it worked like a charm, got the clutch and rotor off and now im looking at the stator plate scratching my head, i got off the 3 screws on the plate and its not budging, any good ideas for this? lol/tear, ill take some pictures of the ugly thing once i get it cracked open, its probably going to put you guys off a bit

[1982fl250c]

thanks for the hammer idea it worked like a charm, got the clutch and rotor off and now im looking at the stator plate scratching my head, i got off the 3 screws on the plate and its not budging, any good ideas for this? lol/tear, ill take some pictures of the ugly thing once i get it cracked open, its probably going to put you guys off a bit

hi it must be corroded there...the seal must of leak water in the back give little light tap all around the plate and pull. the mud in the bottom is rust building up from the crank, the water that was there for years...!  there is 4 wires with a little rubber that hold the wire on the engine casing can hold it there a bit to here is the service for that part --> http://www.spinreel.com/12-6.jpg :idea:  

[250fly]

hey its been a while but i got the old gummed up motor apart, and spent some time cleaning off the big chucks, the bearings were packed full of crap, well the whole case looked like it was full of old oil, dirt, and rust, i got some pictures and i was wondering if the crank and case are to pitted out

[250fly]

and this one

[1982fl250c]

and this one

sorry to say looks like that engine was running wen the water got in it and water burn it ..! story short your engine casing will need to be change or (see if the new bearing will be hard to slip in in place if not will explain later) ok..! if the bearings fall in place easy that means you will have to buy new casings there are a couble on ebay and add news seals and bearings go to machine chop to rebuild the crank or ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/83-HONDA-FL250-ODYSSEY-FL-250-CRANK-CRANKSHAFT-/400185718289?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d2ced7611 ) + new piston with news conecting rod bearings. over size cylinder 1 size over ....! :idea:( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-ODYSSEY-FL250-FL-250-ATV-ENGINE-MOTOR-CRANK-CASES-/270699888930?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f06f88122 ) Also: seals must be installed before the bearings during reinstallation. Also:
If you put the bearings in the freezer for a while before installation they will contract (shrink)
a little due to the cold. This will make bearing installation a little easier or complete engine ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/odyssey-fl250-rebuilt-engine-assembled-motor-/320660611178?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aa8dca06a ) just add a snowmobile engine like a yamaha250cc or polaris 4 wheeler 250cc engine 2 stroke do not go bigger then 300cc

[250fly]

yeah i thought it looked pretty rough, i bet i pulled about a 6th of a cup of rusty and old crap out of that thing, i found this and picked it up, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350387731333&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT, all i need now is a new gasket set, and i was wondering if my rings look bad to you guys, i noticed that that the opening in the rings are two different sizes, the top rings cut out is a lot bigge rand slighty warn in a couple spots, not good?

[1982fl250c]

yeah i thought it looked pretty rough, i bet i pulled about a 6th of a cup of rusty and old crap out of that thing, i found this and picked it up, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350387731333&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT, all i need now is a new gasket set, and i was wondering if my rings look bad to you guys, i noticed that that the opening in the rings are two different sizes, the top rings cut out is a lot bigge rand slighty warn in a couple spots, not good?

 :shock:  yes you need a new piston with rings are on them wen you buy them on ebay and i will need to see the inside of your cylinder to see if you need cylinder over size or just Rehone cylinder wall

[hoodlum]

The only way to know if it needs to be bored is to have it lightly honed with a rigid hone....It will hit the high spots and not the worn low spots...Even if it looks decent after the hone,it needs to be measured for out of round or taper...If any of these conditions are present,boring is mandatory....You will need new piston and rings,as well as a pin and small rod bearing....I would also be willing to bet the crank is toast....I am sure the rod big end is pitted,and the bearing is shot....Also,the surfaces where the seals ride are probably pitted as well,and won't allow good sealing....
Not sure what the cases will cost you,but in the past,I have heard of people having the bearing pockets welded and re-machined to the correct tolerance....You need a reputable machine shop to do this,as any mis-alignment will result in your main bearings toasting in short order....
Hoodlum

[250fly]

i got my new bottom end and everything looks pretty good, besides it did have a gasket on it. Found a buddy with a honer and hit the cyclinder it and sure enough it was flat, but I was wondering what kind of piston i should get for it? I dont really want to travel to far from stock and i've found a good machine shop.

[250fly]

didnt have a gasket*

[whammo77]

As far as pistons go, most of my fl's have OEM. I do have one running with a Wiseco and it has been great over the years. I guess a lot of it depends on your useage. Some people want to ride them hardcore fast and furious. Others want to just ride them for fun. I haven't yet used a Sudco piston, but hear they are pretty decent. Call me weird, but when it comes to stuff like that, I just like OEM. But I did build the one motor with a Wiseco and it hasn't disppointed me. So there's you 3 to choose from....

Also, dunno where you got your new lower end, but rather than just trusting it, go ahead and replace both shaft bearings and seals. You will have to split the case to do this. In the long run, it could save you a heck of a lot of misery. Get all new gaskets for everything. Don't re-use any of the old ones.

In case you don't know, if any of the seals or gaskets on the motor are leaking, depending on what is leaking, it can lead to the machine not running at all, or running lean and burning it up.  :shock:

I would go ahead and replace the boot for the carburator. If you're gonna do it, do it right man..... couls save you a lot of $$$$ in the long run.....