Fl250 starting troubles

[250fly]

I picked up a pair of fl250s from my friend for 500, ones running good, but the other one is a different story. So far i haven't even gotten that thing to even sputter for me and my arms soar. Ive got good spark, cleaned the carb out, cleaned out the gas tank, good plug, i just dont know much about them to figure it out and so far the internet has been fairly vague. Its last OHV tags were from 96 and i got it with the plug out of it, i havent compression tested it yet,but i'll have the numbers soon. The pull start on it is also a lot harder to turn it over than my running one and i gotta pull pretty hard, any ideas? is it hard to tear one of these motors apart and easy to get gaskets and internal parts for? I love riding around on the running one and want to have the other one so me and another friend can go out and do something stupid and fast, thanks for helpin me out

[hoodlum]

I picked up a pair of fl250s from my friend for 500, ones running good, but the other one is a different story. So far i haven't even gotten that thing to even sputter for me and my arms soar. Ive got good spark, cleaned the carb out, cleaned out the gas tank, good plug, i just dont know much about them to figure it out and so far the internet has been fairly vague. Its last OHV tags were from 96 and i got it with the plug out of it, i havent compression tested it yet,but i'll have the numbers soon. The pull start on it is also a lot harder to turn it over than my running one and i gotta pull pretty hard, any ideas? is it hard to tear one of these motors apart and easy to get gaskets and internal parts for? I love riding around on the running one and want to have the other one so me and another friend can go out and do something stupid and fast, thanks for helpin me out

If the plug was out,I am guessing the cylinder has rust on it,and the compression is shot....It isn't any trouble to get the engine apart,and there are parts available,mainly on e-bay....If it is rusted,plan doing a complete overhaul with crank and rod bearings as well as a piston,rings,and a cylinder hone at a minimum.....More than likely a bore....
Hoodlum

[1982fl250c]

I picked up a pair of fl250s from my friend for 500, ones running good, but the other one is a different story. So far i haven't even gotten that thing to even sputter for me and my arms soar. Ive got good spark, cleaned the carb out, cleaned out the gas tank, good plug, i just dont know much about them to figure it out and so far the internet has been fairly vague. Its last OHV tags were from 96 and i got it with the plug out of it, i havent compression tested it yet,but i'll have the numbers soon. The pull start on it is also a lot harder to turn it over than my running one and i gotta pull pretty hard, any ideas? is it hard to tear one of these motors apart and easy to get gaskets and internal parts for? I love riding around on the running one and want to have the other one so me and another friend can go out and do something stupid and fast, thanks for helpin me out

around 600$+ 2 special tools to take engine apart , just to fixe it back the engine your self labor .. like hoodlum said: your crank bearings must have rust on them + crank seals will need the be change +cylinder will need rebore + new piston+carb boot must be cracked + car kit and many other things can follow with that..! i have a engine here that did like yours mine was the crank bearings rusted out ..! the guy before me left the engine outside for 3 years with no spark plug on engine was  still turning wen i got it but was it ever hard to pull. so i just got my self and other engine that was in better shape i just rebuilt, i am only missing the pull start that goes for 280$ it self on ebay very hard to get a good one 2hand..

[250fly]

I figured id have to crack that thing open even if i really didnt want to,  what are those two special tools? I really like learning how to do this stuff, but is there anybetter information on engine work besides the online download manual and who do I have to talk to  get that thing bored out?
thanks again you guys, I feel like i might get it running when i have the money to put into it

[250fly]

O yeah and when I pulled the engine out and look through the exhaust port,the piston, rings, and the walls were free from scratchs or rust as far as I could see and my carb boot I got so wrapped up with electrical tape  its not going anywere, should I compression test it or do you think I chould just go ahead and crack it on open and see what I find.
 This is also my first engine work besides my 74 beetle lol

[hoodlum]

O yeah and when I pulled the engine out and look through the exhaust port,the piston, rings, and the walls were free from scratchs or rust as far as I could see and my carb boot I got so wrapped up with electrical tape  its not going anywere, should I compression test it or do you think I chould just go ahead and crack it on open and see what I find.
 This is also my first engine work besides my 74 beetle lol

Electrical tape on the intake? Get rid of it!!!! You will have an air leak and melt the engine....Don't chance it.....Very well may be the reason it doesn't run now......Whoever had it before let it do it's damage....

[250fly]

ok i will, is there anything else i can use for sealer, cause i dodnt have a ton of money, and a new intake would be like another 70 bucks for that little piece...

[1982fl250c]

ok i will, is there anything else i can use for sealer, cause i dodnt have a ton of money, and a new intake would be like another 70 bucks for that little piece...

the carb boot is around 90$ and the tools 1 is a HONDA FL250 ODYSSEY DRIVE PRIMARY CLUTCH PULLER honda sell that for 20$ or ebay motor.com ... and the other is a HONDA FL250,350, ODYSSEY ATV FLYWHEEL PULLER thats 20$ also at honda or ebay motor.com ..! yes you need to open crank the bearings are shot and you need to go see a machine shop near you for honing your cylinder..

[250fly]

i found a friend with a honer and a clutch puller, i cracked open the pull start and i got really confused, I looked up those tools  and i dont understand how they work, the clutch puller goes on the big nut in the middle of the rotor im guess and the fly wheel is used for what? how do i hold the rotor in place while I turn it? Im sorry if im just asking a bunch of stupid questions. I cant just hold the rotor in place and turn that bolt with a 17mm wrench?

[250fly]

I was wondering is the everything reverse threaded?

[1982fl250c]

I was wondering is the everything reverse threaded?

 re hi try this service manuel it is the best i can do for you it would be to long to explaine all this stuff -->  http://www.atlanticpaints.com/Manuals/PDF%20Files/ODYSSEY%20FL250.pdf :lol:

[250fly]

thanks for the good information

[girth first]

If i remember right the primary clutch tool is nothing more than a 7/8" nf bolt. it is used like a jacking bolt, because the clutch is on a tapper. you can use a small deep socket to take up the excess distance but not to small so as to not mess the internall threads on the crank end. use a spanner wrench on the outside of the clutch it should come off.

[250fly]

lol wish i would have reaqd that before i went over to the honda shop near me and picke up both of the tools. took the other one up to browns camp and saw what it could do wo

[1982fl250c]

lol wish i would have reaqd that before i went over to the honda shop near me and picke up both of the tools. took the other one up to browns camp and saw what it could do wo

hi you are better off with the real tools .. ! and yes you can fix the air intake boot (clean boot with carburater cleaner first. than sand it with sand paper all over the rubber like 220 grid.!) then with black RTV silicone high temp gasquet maker it is the one oil and gas proof..! add like 1/8 thick all over it let stand for 24 hours and sheck it every month to see if you need to add more untill you can get a new one..!