Author Topic: hi from new brunswick canada just got my 2th 1982 fl250c  (Read 4451 times)

1982fl250c

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hi from new brunswick canada just got my 2th 1982 fl250c
« on: March 03, 2010, 10:42:33 AM »
can i add a bigger carb other than the original and can i change to a cr 250 muffler will it give little more power is it a good ideal to add vents on the side of frame  to make more air go on the engine thanks :)

1982fl250c

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Re: hi from new brunswick canada just got my 2th 1982 fl250c
« Reply #1 on: March 14, 2010, 01:16:02 PM »
Quote from: "1982fl250c"
can i add a bigger carb other than the original and can i change to a cr 250 muffler will it give little more power is it a good ideal to add vents on the side of frame  to make more air go on the engine thanks :)
1982 Honda odyssey FL 250C (2 stroke) note for my self Fortunately, a 73 - 74 Honda CR250 head will bolt on to a Honda Odyssey FL250 engine. The 73-74 Honda CR250 cylinder head has taller cooling fins and they are taller across the entire head. No shortened fins to clear a tuned pipe since the earlier CR250's had the tuned pipe go down and along the bottom of the bike. What this means is that 73-74 CR250 head can help provide a little better cooling capacity.You can use a 83-84 CR250 head gasket. The CR250 head gasket is made of copper and will fit the 77-84 FL250.
You will gain a little compression & performance because it is thinner than the FL250 gasket. Heat transfer between
the head & cyl is improved. Also this head gasket can save you money. This head gasket can be reused many times if
it is removed carefully without bending or creasing. All you have to do is clean it. Then heat it up until it glows red
hot & slowly dip it in water. This will anneal the copper (make it soft again)(copper anneals differently then iron or
steel, it does not require slow cooling to soften).Heating can be done with a propane torch.stock carb is 28mm can go up to 32mm max.will bolt on engine base 1973/74 CR250 cylinder,head,carb. 34-38 mm. for extra fun..CR250 elsinore and an MT250 elsinore. The MT250 is the same as the odyssey. The CR250 has much better porting than the MT250, and will bolt directly onto the odyssey bottom end.stock fl250 is a 70 mm bore to 72mm max over size piston only.fits on looking for W/STEEL SILENCER DG NATIONAL PIPES and DG PERF PORCUPINE RADIAL FIN HEAD CR250 MT250 for INCREASED ACCELERATION.
Add a caption
lots of cleaning to do all over engine there was no fire after 1hour of testing and cleaning find some, turn good comprentions,now cleaning carb cleaning gas tank and need 1 front tire ,need part for pull start ( Friction Plate)
re NOTE You can also do it per this paper but without the flywheel key, your ignition timing may spontaneously change for 1981 to 84 honda odyssey fl250c 34-38mm carburetor. recommend a Mikuni TM/TMX or Keihin PJ/PWK Unless you are using an aftermarket ignition system, the timing needs to be changed on the models with CDI ignition for better performance at high RPM. You will lose some midrange pull but top-end will be much better and your engine will live to thank you. Here is how to change the timing to 16 degrees BTDC. With the stator and flywheel on, push the piston to BDC with a dowel or screwdriver and hold it there. Scratch a mark on the stator that lines up with the second firing mark. (There are three marks on the stock flywheel. One marked "T" for TDC and two more. The one you want to scratch a line beside now is the one closest to the "T".) Remove the stator and slot the holes about 8mm longer to the left when viewed from the top. (doing this lets you rotate the stator clockwise.) Put the stator back in and turn it roughly 6 degrees but don't tighten the screws, you need to be able to rotate the stator. Install the flywheel and key. Push the piston to BDC and hold it, turning the stator until the mark you just made lines up with the first firing mark (The one furthest from the "T" mark.) Now remove the flywheel and tighten the stator screws. Install the flywheel and key and torque the flywheel nut. Once more, push the piston to BDC and check to be sure that the mark furthest from "T" still lines up with your scribed mark. Now you can run your engine at much higher rpm's with less chance of detonation and longer over-rev The engine is the same basic design as the CR250M, which is a pretty wild machine. The easiest way to get more high revving power is to bolt on the top-end from the CR. In doing this, you will lose some bottom end power, but once it comes into the power in the midrange, it pulls hard right up to a screaming top-end at about 8500RPM. My clutch engages at about 3800RPM and it will still madly spin the tires from a stop.To make the swap, you need the following parts from a ?73-74 CR250M.The cylinder,The head , The intake manifold,The head gasket . source : http://members.shaw.ca/tjsodyssey/topswap.html

1982fl250c

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Subject: FL250 Maintenance Tips:
« Reply #2 on: November 23, 2010, 08:07:01 AM »
I will soon check the Clymer corrections against the factory Honda manual when I have time.

    That way I can correct any mistakes that are in that manual as well.

    I have noticed various mistakes in the Clymer FL250 manual. I have addressed the mistakes here:

    I have the fourth edition of this manual. If you don't, page #'s might not be the same.

     

    Here are the changes:

     

    P.61

    Manual says to remove the crankshaft seals before removing the crankshaft main bearings

    (during bearing replacement). This is wrong. On an FL250 the crankshaft bearing must be removed

    first, then the seals. Also: seals must be installed before the bearings during reinstallation. Also:

    If you put the bearings in the freezer for a while before installation they will contract (shrink)

    a little due to the cold. This will make bearing installation a little easier.

     

    P.98

    Make a note on the jetting correction factor chart that the stock FL250 28mm carb has a 120 main

    jet from the factory. Any flow mods will probably require a larger main jet to keep EGT within

    desirable range depending on air temp/altitude/fuel mixture etc.  

     

    P.126

    States that the limit on the lower steering shaft bushing is 0.8165

    this is wrong. The measurement should be 0.7165

     

    P.191

    1977-1979 ignition schematic

    6 volt AC points ignition system

    35 watt 6 volt AC headlight.

    The ignition switch is open (no continuity) when magneto is on.

    The switch is closed when magneto is off (has continuity)

    Along the trail of the wires for the wiring harness/schematic, the arrow represents a male connector

    and the block represents a female connector.

     

    P.192

    1980 only ignition

    12 volt AC points ignition system

    45 watt 12 volt AC headlight.  

    The ignition switch is open (no continuity) when magneto is on.

    The switch is closed when magneto is off (has continuity)

    Along the trail of the wires for the wiring harness/schematic, the arrow represents a male connector

    and the block represents a female connector.

     

    P.193

    1981-1984 CDI ignition (hands down the best factory system built for an FL250)

    12 volt AC Capacitor Discharge Ignition. (no points)

    60 watt headlight 12 volt AC

    3 watt tail light 12 volt AC

    The ignition switch is open (no continuity) when magneto is on.

    The switch is closed when magneto is off (has continuity)

    Along the trail of the wires for the wiring harness/schematic, the arrow represents a male connector

    and the block represents a female connector.

     

    Where it shows the alternator (bottom center of the page, landscape view)

    The coil shown in the center is the pulse coil.

    The coil on the right that goes up to the CDI box is the exciter coil (wire is labeled Bk/R)

    The coil on the left is the lighting coil (wire labeled Y).

     

     

                        !!!********VERY IMPORTANT:*********!!!

     

    Applies to 81-84 CDI ignition systems only:

     

    ***This particular thing has confused me more than once.

     

    Read the color codes / abbreviations listed in the manual.

     

    The wire going from the CDI box to the spark plug coil labeled B/Y is some times black with a yellow

     stripe & sometimes blue with a yellow stripe.

     

    The wire labeled Bk/Y going from the CDI box to the right side of the pulse coil is some times black

     with a yellow stripe & sometimes blue with a yellow stripe.

     

    They will almost always be one or the other (the two different wires will not be the same color/stripe),

    but I have encountered odysseys that had the same color/stripe wires for both.

     

    I have encountered odysseys that someone previous to me has hacked up the wiring harness, wired it wrong,

    & the car would not run. I attribute this to them following the uncorrected maintenance manual without having

    the joy & benefit of experiencing this before.

     

    DO NOT hook it up the wrong way. This invites an opportunity to damage the CDI box & other components.

     

    Check your machine & figure it out. Make a note of what it is. This can confuse if you are having an ignition

    problem & trying to trouble shoot it.

     

     

                        !!!*********END OF VERY IMPORTANT:*********!!!

     

     

     

     

    The last page in the Clymer FL250 Manual is for notes.

    The following is good information to add there:

     

    Ignition Tips:

    Let there be no doubt that your FL250 Odyssey puts out 12 volt AC power, not DC. You can verify this by

    placing a multimeter on your yellow wire(power lead for the lights) coming from the stator while the engine

     is running. If you try to use AC to charge a 12 volt battery it will eventually damage the DC battery.

     

    The stock ignition rotating magnet-flywheel puller (fits all year FL250's, & also fits FL350 flywheels) can

    be ordered from Dennis Kirk part # 28-282 for $18.99  

     

    Ricky Stator now rewinds the ignition coils for your FL250 stator plate. If you have a stator plate that is

    bad, he can repair it.

     

    I don't care for the original FL250 Odyssey points style ignition systems. I have found them to be unreliable.

    Any money wasted buying tune up kits with points and condenser would be better spent towards buying a

    reliable 12 Volt CDI system for your odyssey.

     

    This trick that will enable you to do a quick check of your ignition system without any tools at all. Materials

    needed: You need a spark plug hole rethreading tap from the auto parts store ($7) and a  9/16 - 18 thread

    pitch standard or jam nut from the hardware store that the tap fits tightly into when you try to start it ($0.50).

    Don't buy a grade 8 nut. Buy the lowest quality nut that you can find, preferably grade 2 or pot metal. The grade 8

    nuts are very hard on your tap. Procedure: Run the spark plug hole rethreading tap through the hardware store nut

    several times. Then try threading a spark plug through the freshly retapped nut. If the spark plug will thread through

    the nut easily, the nut is ready to install. Sand off a clean spot on the roll cage near the cylinder head and spark

    plug lead. Then weld the nut to the chassis. If you can't weld, get someone to weld it for you. Any muffler shop

    ($10 max). Then run the tap back through the nut after it after it cools. OK then kit is installed. Paint welded area

    to match roll cage. Now install a new spark plug into the nut you just welded to the roll cage. Any time your Odyssey

    won't start just pull the spark plug lead from the plug on the cylinder head & install it on the plug on the roll cage.

    If it doesn't spark when you pull the starter, you know the ignition system is not firing. This can often reduce

    trouble shooting time, and you are not trying to pull the start cord while grounding the spark plug by holding it

    against the cylinder head. The added bonus is you always have a spare plug handy. This tip also works for Pilots

    & FL350's.

     

    If you replace your factory spark plug boot, replace it with an NGK boot. These boots install on your factory spark

    plug lead easily. They feature a positive locking device that uses splines to lock the boot onto the spark plug. It will

    ensure a positive connection between the spark plug lead and the spark plug and will ensure

    that the boot will not fall off during riding. (I have seen old worn out boots that would actually fall off while

    riding. This tip also works for Pilots & FL350's.

     

    Engine Tips:

    You can use a 83-84 CR250 head gasket. The CR250 head gasket is made of copper and will fit the 77-84 FL250.

    You will gain a little compression & performance because it is thinner than the FL250 gasket. Heat transfer between

    the head & cyl is improved. Also this head gasket can save you money. This head gasket can be reused many times if

    it is removed carefully without bending or creasing. All you have to do is clean it. Then heat it up until it glows red

    hot & slowly dip it in water. This will anneal the copper (make it soft again)(copper anneals differently then iron or

    steel, it does not require slow cooling to soften).Heating can be done with a propane torch or on the kitchen burner.

    The Honda part # for the copper head gasket it is 12251-357-020. This tip was contributed by Frank Callas.

     

    Viton engine seals: I have found these crankshaft seals to be superior to the butyl rubber seals that come in the

    standard rebuild kits, if the kit you bought has seals in it (some don't). The Viton seals are rated to withstand temps

    up to 500 degrees F, while the standard seals are only good for like 280. They don't cost very much more, so they

    are worth the extra money to me. They don't seem to be as subject to hardening like the butyl rubber seals. Anyway,

    that is what I always use and they work good. Part #'s for the viton seals: I buy these seals from Motion Industries,

    Inc. They are nationwide, so you should be able to find them in your yellow pages under bearings.

     

    The part # for the clutch side viton seal is:  

    1  00403  R 91628

    30X55X10 ADL  Seal

    CP-8-24

     

    The part # for the ignition side viton seal is:  

      2 00403 Z 20000

    25X55X10 ADL

    CP-8-13

     

    Use good main bearings. Spend the extra $10. The cheap China bearings ain't no good. Don't use them. FL250 main

    bearings are part # 6306.

     

    Fuel systems tips:

    If you are having trouble with rust in your gas tank you can install a Kreem gas tank prep kit. This will eliminate the

    rust in your tank if installed properly (follow the instructions carefully!). It will also coat the inside of your tank

    with plastic so it will not rust again. It can be ordered from Dennis Kirk part # 31-52 for $25.99

     

    If your stock fuel pump is bad you can replace it with a Mikuni fuel pump for much less than a stock replacement.

    It can be ordered from any ATV parts house for about $20. I will post the part number next time I run across it.

     

    Transmission & Axle Tips:

    If you remove axle for any reason, you will have noticed that you have to remove the right side bearing carrier and

    parking brake to get the axle out. This is because the lip that butts against the transmission is to large to fit through

    the bearing on the bearing carrier. If you grind the lip down a little or get it turned down slightly it will slide right

    through the bearing. From then on you can remove the axle without having to remove the bearing carrier.  

     

    If you remove the parking brake drum and grind away all the drum so it is just a spacer, this will reduce the weight

    of the axle assembly and the car will accelerate quicker. You can remove all parts of the parking brake to eliminate

    unnecessary weight on the odyssey.

     

    If you race dirt oval track you can get the center section of the axle turned down to about 1" in diameter. Do this

    while having the turned section tapered back out to the original diameter near the edges where it passes through

    the tranny & bearing carrier. This will allow the axle to flex a little and the car will not bounce as bad when you

    hit bumps on the track. Also the axle is less likely to bend because it will flex instead of bending. It will also

    driven weight so the car will accelerate quicker. This tip was contributed by Frank Callas.

     

    The 77-81 FL250 transmission has a weaker chain than the 82-84 FL250. The two chains are interchangeable. If

    you have your transmission open for any sort of maintenance you can replace the weaker chain with the 82-84

    heavy duty chain. Part # for the heavy duty chain is: No. RK 50KB-42 LE (Takasago). If you break a chain under

    full throttle it will usually do some serious damage to the gear case. If you have the gearbox open & the chain is

    loose, my advice is to change it.

     

    The manual says to use 10W30 or 10W40 motor oil in the gearbox. I use 90 weight gear oil with climbing lube

    additive or some STP mixed in to help thicken the mixture and allow the oil to climb the gears. I have had far

    fewer gearbox failures since I went to the thicker oil mixture.

     

    Suspension Tips:

    The front hubs (drums) from a FL350 Odyssey and the old Honda Fourtrax will fit your FL250 if you would like

    to change the front bolt pattern from 3 on 100mm to a  4 on 110mm bolt pattern. I got mine at a salvage yard for

    $20. This will allow you to purchase front wheels in 8" or 10" diameter with pretty well any offset & width you

    want to run. The aftermarket 3 on 100 wheels are very limited for sizes/offsets/widths nowadays (lately they

    can only be ordered 8"diameter 6" width with no offset as far as I know). The 350 drums are aluminum, the

    fourtrax are steel, so the 350's are lighter. I usually cut the drum surface off so it is just a hub. I am sure there

    are other Honda hubs that will work, but these I know will work. If you have 4 on 110 mm front hubs & ride with

    350's much you can borrow a spare tire from them if you get a flat & don't have a front spare handy. Also the

    FL350 Odyssey/Honda Fourtrax hubs come with sealed bearings and that is good for riding in the mud.

     

    The FL350 & Fourtrax hubs add about 1 & 1/2" of offset to the front end. This helps eliminate ball joint

    interference if you want to file down the steering stops or remove them from the knuckle completely. The

    factory ball joints have a tendency to hit the inside of stock wheel after the steering stop had been removed from

    the knuckle. Adding offset will space the inside of the wheel away from the outer ball joint.

     

    Removing the steering stops from the steering knuckle will allow you to turn in a tighter radius. The FL250 odyssey

    will spin a donut in a very tight circle after this mod has been made & helps to reduce the need for reverse. Just

    be sure to check for ball joint hitting the inside of the wheel before you cut the stop off completely.

     

    The sealed front wheel bearing part #  for a stock 3 on 100 front hub FL250 is 6004 (Timken or SKF). The sealed

    rear axle bearing part #  for the bearing carrier on the parking brake side (right side) is 6007.

     

    The next time you remove your front & rear hubs take the cotter pins to the hardware store and buy hair pin cotters.

    Replace the stock cotter pins with the hair pin cotters. The hair pin cotters are reusable, easy to install, allow

    for quick hub changes, and you are never caught without a cotter pin (often you end up not having the right

    size cotter pin when you need one). Buy the stainless steel pins if they have them. They resist corrosion better than

    cad plated pins. This tip also works for Pilots & FL350's.

     

    The next time you pull your front j-arms (front trailing arms) off your FL250 Odyssey to clean & lube the bushings,

    drill a hole & tap it for a grease fitting (usually a 1/4 x 28 thread pitch tap for the grease fitting). Do this in a

    location between the 2 bushings that is accessible with a grease gun. >From then on you can use a grease gun to

    lube the j-arm bushings instead of having to remove them.

     

    On just about every FL250 I have ever seen there is excessive up and down play in the steering column. You can

    grab the steering wheel and pull the steering shaft up and down in the column because it is not shimmed tight.

    I had an Odyssey that the steering wheel would buzz while I was holding the wheel. This is something I can't stand.

    If  you shim the column tight with steel washers it will always bind at some point when turning the wheel. I found

    plastic washers make great shims. I make the washers by cutting them out of a plastic antifreeze jug. The material

    is thin enough that you can install a couple until you eliminate the slack (but not to tight, just snug). Install them on

    the bottom of the steering shaft in-between the tie rod mount & the bottom of the column tube. Put a little grease

    on the washers and the steering shaft during assembly. Then the slack is gone and the column will not bind. Also:

    If you decide to eliminate the slack, it is an ideal time to measure your bushings while shimming the column.. Also

    the plastic washer trick can be used to remove the slight side to side play that the throttle trigger and the brake

    lever have as well.  

     

    Clutch Pulling Tips

    The stock FL250 drive clutch puller can be ordered from Dennis Kirk and the part #  28-287 for $19.99  

    (does not fit FL350 clutch)

     

    Another trick that all the racers do is drill a small hole in the frame on the left side of the chassis in line with

    the clutch bolt. This will allow you to slip an extension through the frame rail. You can then use a impact tool to

    loosen the clutch bolt & remove the clutch with the puller. On a racing Odyssey this is important, because

    clutch adjustments and maintenance are done often.

     

    If you are at the race track & don't have access to compressed air you can still remove the clutch bolt for tuning

    quite easily. Take some good quality clean nylon rope (use nylon because it does not shed particles like regular rope)

    and coil it down into the cylinder head spark plug hole. Then turn the engine until the piston comes up towards top

    dead center & presses against the rope. This is known as a piston stop & will allow the clutch retaining bolt to be

    removed with a ratchet. You can then remove the cover on your Powerbloc clutch to add or remove tuning weights.

    This is just for cover removal. Do not use this for removing the clutch hub from the crankshaft. You will be

    applying to much force against the piston. This tip was contributed by Frank Callas.

     

    If you make a clutch face holding tool that slips over both clutch faces on a Powerbloc it makes changing weights

    a breeze. All you need is a 3' long piece of 2"x3" box steel. Cut it down the middle so it forms a C channel.

    There is your tool. slip it over the clutch faces and it will prevent the spring from unloading while changing

    the weights.

     

    If you rear drive unit (driven clutch) will not come off the transmission (which is usually the case), you can use

    a puller 8" jaw gear puller. Sometimes it will shear the snap ring off the clutch. If this happens you can then take

    a harmonic balancer puller and use it by installing long bolts through the fixed face of the drive clutch. You will

    have to drill through the fixed face and use nuts on the long bolts after you stick them through the fixed face.

    There are a couple of real small holes in the fixed face. Drill them up just large enough to stick the bolts through.

    It usually helps to keep soaking the shaft with PB Blaster or break free solvent from the top and bottom. Sometimes

    it takes several months to get them to loosen up. I have had some that took a over year. If you heat cycle them about

    once a week

    that will help also. I use a propane torch and just heat it up real good, then let it cool. If you try to use an Oxy torch

    it will sometimes melt the aluminum. (I've done it before). If you get mad at it you can take a grinder with a cutting

    and cut the mother off, but be very careful when you get to the shaft area. Don't cut into the input shaft. They cost

    over $120 new. When you get ready to install your rear drive unit make sure the shaft is clean and free of burs.

    I polish all rust away using a grinder with a scotch brite pad. Use antiseize on the shaft and pully and key. Lots of it!

     

     If you need to service or repair the Salisbury clutches The factory Honda maintenance manual has all the

    information  and list all the necessary tools. It cover the procedures in detail. The Clymer manual does not have

    the information on the factory clutches other than how to remove them. The FL250 has Salisbury 700 rear

    drive unit from the factory. It does not have backlash slippers like the Comet 90D or Salisbury 790 & 770.

     

    Other Tips

    Motion Pro makes a replacement throttle cable & parking brake cable. Part numbers are 02-0016 for throttle

    and 02-0137 for the parking brake.

    If you have an FL250 and need a maintenance manual, you can order one (part # 36-52) for $25.99 from

    Dennis Kirk(1-800-328-9280).

     

     

    I wrote this to help you get your Odyssey up & running so you can go have fun! Print this and tape it in the

    back of your Clymer FL250 manual for easy reference.

     

     

    Bill..



Hi Hoser, I finally had time to go dig up the FL250 piston interchanges for you. Here's the info:



  The following pistons are a direct interchange with the FL250:



  73-74 250 MT,CR,MR - Does not have reed cutaway



  75-77 250 MT,CR,MR - Does not have reed cutaway



  77-84 FL250 - Does not have reed cutaway



  78-80 CR250 - Has Reed Cutaway (431)



  81-84 ATC 250R - Has Reed Cutaway (431)



  The list above is a guideline for the piston you are looking for (FL250 interchange with reed cutaway). Since

you have a reed cage, order the 431 style

  (78-80 CR250 and 81-84 ATC 250R) and you will have a good chance of getting one with the reed cutaway

already there.





  The 78-80 CR250 and 81-84 ATC 250R - pistons are supposed to have the reed cutaway out of the box,

but I am looking at a Weisco 431 I have that came

  without cutaway. Don't ask me why, I don't know. It just means I have to cut the damn thing (that sucks, huh?

Go figure?). I have ordered 431's before and  they came out of the box with the cutaways.





  All these pistons are available through Weisco. I know you hate Weisco's so I tried to reference them

through ProX. None of these pistons are available through ProX as far as I can tell. There are probably

factory Honda pistons available through your Honda Dealer if you want a factory Honda piston. I have

  not researched Sudco, so they may be available through them (if Sudco & ProX aren't the same co.,

ain't sure).