Author Topic: Mrs. Adnoh's new motor  (Read 9178 times)

PilotHawK

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Mrs. Adnoh's new motor
« Reply #15 on: April 05, 2008, 08:16:35 AM »
I am pretty sure the green has a much higher release temp, and is designed for hold a much larger surface area that either the red or the blue. Consistency wise they are all about the same.

Adnoh

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« Reply #16 on: April 05, 2008, 09:58:34 AM »
sound good. I'll go shopping. Hold large area and ease of release sound like the ticket as long as it hold well. I bet it would. It would alow enough holding power along with the friction fit that the rotating force of the crank and balls would spin before the holding agent and the side force on the bearing cage would let go even at high RPM's where most stat to spin in the case from either being bad or improper instalation also if on rebuild the spin on the crank it self from time on crank shaft with new bearings without checking clearences and fit. By chance is there a web site for loctite. Maybe do some resurche. I will pas a little infor on another secerte sauce. It also is a loctite product. It is used on small two cycle engines were no center gasket is required. If a case has some minor damage fom clean up or sanding ect.and a gap developes between them this will hold the gap( I put case together after clean up without gasket and shine lite into bottom end looking for such areas and apply to arear on assembly) mark with pencile on out side of case as on assembly know where to apply. Thanks for the info.

Adnoh

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« Reply #17 on: April 05, 2008, 04:37:49 PM »
Measured up bottom end and ready to assembly. The one bearing on the stator side will be a little tight so It may get a little extra time in the frezzer. I picked up some green. I will try to get info before using.

FL670R

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« Reply #18 on: April 06, 2008, 03:08:38 AM »
There is no doubt - You sir are "THE TOOL KING"

Catch ya in a couple weeks at LS...

Later
Dennis

Moskito

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« Reply #19 on: April 06, 2008, 08:25:43 AM »
I like how everything is spotless, arranged nicely and then theres the Budweiser sitting in the lower left corner of the pic.   8)

For you Loc-tite quest, check out McMaster-Carr  They have 745 different Loc-Tite products listed.

Need a head gasket for that engine?  :wink:
Moskito - Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming \'WOW-What a Ride!\'

Adnoh

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« Reply #20 on: April 06, 2008, 11:35:30 AM »
745, Man that a lot of reading. Thanks for the link. I wonder if they have a745 trial pack. Clean parts require clean tools. Some say it's a disorder that's why I offset by the cold one,two, three, four, ect. I was consirend the crank may have been damaged when shipped the box was damaged. The run out was .00023. The one thng that conserned me was no type of shipping lube on the crank or bearing.  Looking forward to LS , The fl670 is one of the coolest LT pilot I have seen Can't wait to see it run and serve up some sand sandwiches. I feel I was cheated last trip with the ripped CV boot. I need to do post rideinsp. on mine been so busy at work too late to measure intake tract strenght I bet it alredy dried up. Man I hate it when I get sloopy. I have sets of honda gaskets for hers. I,am setting it up for stock, then will bench stock, comet and yours to compare and how to apply to stock milled and cut heads. The right part for the applaction makes the biggest diff. I may need to go get my friends two pilots and set up all four and dyno to support #'s. The peel and apply still sticks in my head as it so simple a cave man could do it. Miss cut a little just peel a layer insted of recut. bigger bore leave a little extra on and cut to fit bore. Can it be that simple. I will get my 82mm bore back from a friend I loaned it too and use in comparason as well. The bigger bore aka togue monster use a lower CR than the smaller bore DCP. this is where I feel it feel a ninch in the market. Go Las Vegas from Sandiego peel a layer and retain CR and jet. I feel this should be market in the race sieres. I bet theres some race shops that may very interest or should. Thanks again for info.

Adnoh

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« Reply #21 on: April 06, 2008, 06:14:20 PM »
few more pics, the bottom end is together and now will start cylinder map in degrees. I will compaile the info on measurment this week and post. Hope to start porting mid week, and have head milled first of next.

Moskito

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« Reply #22 on: April 06, 2008, 07:32:36 PM »
What, no beer in any of those pix?

Slacker.  8)

Great info.  Very cool watching each aspect of your rebuild.  I wish I had your patience and diligence.
Moskito - Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming \'WOW-What a Ride!\'

Adnoh

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« Reply #23 on: April 12, 2008, 09:37:15 PM »
Done a little playing today. Hes some #'s and pics.

Crank Run out         Inch      
         0.00023      

Big end side side clearence         mm      
   Shim to Rod      0.50      
   Shim to Bearing      0.35      

Little end ID      mm         
   X = 45 degrees from center            
   Y=90 degrees for X            
   X   clutch   center   stator   Average
      25   25.01   25   25.00333333


   Y   clutch   center   stator   Average   
      24.99   24.98   25.01   24.99333333   

            ID average   24.99833333   

Crank OD      mm      Bearing ID      mm
   Clutch Side   30.07         Clutch Side   29.99
   Stator Side   32.02         Stator Side   31.99

Case ID      mm      Bearing OD      mm
   Clutch Side   71.98         Clutch Side   72.00
   Stator Side   71.99         Stator Side   72.00


Pre assembly case measurments                  
Bearing to Bearing ID         
      mm   
Degrees   0   69.94   
   90   69.95   
   180   69.92   
   270   69.93   

Crank Center, side clearence         mm
   Clutch   1.15   
   Stator   1.25   



Case Assembly         
Temps         
   Case Temp      68 degrees
   Bearing Temp      32 degrees   
Instal IN- pounds            
   Clutch side      125   
   Stator Side      253   


Balancer            mm

   clutch Side         
      Bearing ID      24.99
      Balancer end OD      24.98

   Stator Side         
      Bearing OD      80.00
      Case ID      80.01

      mm
Rod Little End ID average      24.99833333
Pen OD      19.99

Adnoh

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« Reply #24 on: April 12, 2008, 09:46:39 PM »
more pics

Adnoh

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« Reply #25 on: April 12, 2008, 09:54:35 PM »
more pics

Adnoh

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« Reply #26 on: April 12, 2008, 10:04:11 PM »
more pics

Adnoh

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« Reply #27 on: April 12, 2008, 10:12:18 PM »
forgot one.

PilotHawK

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« Reply #28 on: April 12, 2008, 11:48:46 PM »
Nice work. Once you get the cylinder mapped you get to start drawing, and calculating. Then comes the fun work.....cutting.

Maybe you've already mentioned this, but what kind of RPM range are you looking to for you peak numbers? Do you already have a pipe for this or are you having one built.

Keep the pics coming.

Adnoh

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« Reply #29 on: April 13, 2008, 11:50:18 AM »
The wife does not like it loud. so stock pipe will be used. Bummer! I will be inlarging the stinger on stock pipe and add after market silencer. I like the atvr long style. The range I,am loking at will be  4700 to 7400. I use some thing close to that on mine for chasing drakes around. The wife drives different so se will have a little more bottom end. I had posted a pic of clucth setting for target. I ran this on mine when I first ran with tigers and fl670 and it preformed well still no match it just stock A cylinder but was fun. I then enhanced the top end porting to better suitted the driving style of the drakes.