Author Topic: Mrs. Adnoh's new motor  (Read 7205 times)

Adnoh

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Mrs. Adnoh's new motor
« on: March 26, 2008, 08:09:01 PM »
My wifes motor siezed last trip to the sand and I'am in the process of rebuilding. I thought I would share some of the considerations and math I use when building. I have new parts and have mathed the piston and know are working on cylinder maping. The info posted here first is just basic based on new piston. I will post the rest as it developes and the pramertors involved.

Adnoh

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« Reply #1 on: March 26, 2008, 08:13:23 PM »
for some reason it wount let me post attachments?

nuke em

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« Reply #2 on: March 27, 2008, 05:16:05 PM »
Are you planning any porting/polishing? Any other mods (exhaust,carb,clutch)? Keep us posted,
Gary

Moskito

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« Reply #3 on: March 27, 2008, 06:00:06 PM »
Well... If I could open an xls file I'd take a look, but alas, I refuse to use Microsloth products because I'm not a fan of their products  :wink:

I wonder if Lotus will open it? - yea, I still use Lotus 123, 1996 version.  :roll:  Hard to break old habits.
Moskito - Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming \'WOW-What a Ride!\'

Adnoh

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« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2008, 12:18:02 PM »
The pramates for her motor will be New stock bore as listed, a new milled head and recut, mild porting, stock exhaust with sting mod( she does not like it loud) intake mod with new carb. Her present motor has a (BYH)woods port with a CW racing head milled and cut running 165. reshaped the CW head when I rebuilt last Changing the CR and I improved intake flow and made an exhaust port height and width adjustment. This is why I reshaoed it to keep CR  in check with stock pipe.  When done we chased quads at dunes. Now she is chasing Drakes. That a hole new animal. I had done some testing with mine Dialing the motor in for the chase. Since she does like it loud( aka power pipe) the port and head work I use will not work. I now have to apply data to her pipe,suspension and driving style. She tend to brake in hard and power out. So the bottom has to remaine. If she changed her approch angle and rolled though powering out I could give her a little more top end port. This is why I must map the cylinder first do math than start Hacking. The base math is wanting a 38 mm carb with intake angle increase. Sorry tend to babble. The polish part I do not do much of. I tend to like a satin type finish on intake tract to bottom end and piston port. I use my finger to final taper so I can find every uneven surface I can as not impeed the flow by creating a low pressure point upsetting the tract strenght. One way to look at is a set of woops. The bump and ridges on the air streamallows  the strenght of the mix to be altered before reaching the intake port. Darn molacules anyway This also effects the  blow back resonant pressures.The bump and ridges effect both than it compounds at max prm when the intake in time closes the reeds, altering strenght properties. Babbling again. I will try to post in a pdf format or adobe. Not real good with computors.
   STOCK, USED            DAYCO,USED      

ALT   W   29.700   MM      W   29.580   MM
   D   13.350   MM      D   11.280   MM
   CD   4.860   MM      CD   4.550   MM
   F 0   15   DEG      F 0   15   DEG
   M 0   16   DEG      M 0   18   DEG
   RO   1.380   MM      RO   0.280   MM



HRD   W   30.600   MM      W   28.860   MM
   D   13.230   MM      D   12.540   MM
   CD   4.570   MM      CD   4.550   MM
   F 0   14   DEG      F 0   12   DEG
   M 0   13   DEG      M 0   12   DEG
   RO   0.100   MM      RO   0.430   MM



   STOCK, NEW                  

HRD   W   30.770   MM      W =WIDTH      
   D   13.080   MM      D = DEPTH      
   CD   4.480   MM      CD = COGG DEPTH      
   F 0   15   DEG      F = FIXED SIDE OF DRIVE CLUTCH FACE BELT DEGREES IN TAPER      
   M 0   15   DEG      M = MOVABLE SIDE OF DRIVE CLUTCH FACE BELT DEGREES IN TAPER      
   RO   0.004   MM      RO = ROLL OVER (belt squeeze)      

            Limits   limits   Min bore   max bore   Stock bmep   target bemp   Safe Cm   CR stock 6.2:1
Tobey piston 3-08       measured at   OD   min   max         150   168   6800   


Piston OD      10 mm up from skirt   79.925   0.080   0.092   80.005   80.017            

Piston crown      17 mm down fron crown   79.516         79.596   79.608            
                                 
                                 
Swell factor tolerence         0.409   19.56%   22.49%                  
                                 
Bores   A   Avalible      80.013   80.018                  
   B   Avalible      80.007   80.012                  
   C   Not Avalible      80.000   80.006                  
                                 

Comp increase level%   12.00%                  

Bhp   56.7927936   69.76353485               
mechianl effency   70%   70%      based on average dyno run rear wheel HP         
engine output HP   39.75495552   48.83447439               
FOOT POUND PER MINUTE                     




Bores   A   Avalible      80.013   80.018      
   B   Avalible      80.007   80.012      
   C   Not Avalible      80.000   80.006      

      Stock   Woods   Dune   DCP   Race   
PSI   p x   150   165   168   171   185   psi
   n x   6200   6500   6800   7300   7700   rpm
   BHP   56.7927936   65.4949152   69.76353485   76.23058522   86.99068224   bhp
Engine BHP      39.75495552   45.84644064   48.83447439   53.36140965   60.89347757   m-bhp


Bemp   150   165   168   171   185      
   stock   Woods   Dune   DCP   Race   Cm   piston speed
   0.166   0.166   0.166   0.166   0.166   0.166   
   3.11   3.11   3.11   3.11   3.11   L stoke In inches   
   6200   6500   6800   7300   7700   N Crank speed in rpm   
power range   3200.812   3355.69   3510.568   3768.698   3975.202   Cm
bearing stress      good   safe   borderline   max   
Note: increase bemp 12% leave Cm alone Larger bore for piston increase thermal load reduse thermal expansion area and reduce mechinal resistance

ludedude

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« Reply #5 on: March 28, 2008, 02:39:47 PM »

Adnoh

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« Reply #6 on: March 29, 2008, 08:31:04 AM »
Thank you, Ludedude. I have more to post would you share on how to do  so others can view or should I just post work sheets. Sorry for the belt info posted It goes with drive and driven break downs. I tend to hit wrong button some times.  Nukem I would like to here your thought on polishing advantages and disadvantages if any. I'am always open to ideas and thoughts.  Her bike uses a Hrd drive and stock driven with slight mods. Her hrd drive run 14 puck and black spring 9.2. She has reeds and spacer installed for the flow port and runs open air box with outerwear.

ludedude

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« Reply #7 on: March 29, 2008, 03:31:20 PM »
Quote from: "adnoh"
Thank you, Ludedude. I have more to post would you share on how to do  so others can view or should I just post work sheets.


I use google docs application. If you create and/or upload the file you can actually work on it online, as well as share it (view and/or edit rights) with others. Free to use with a google account.

http://docs.google.com/?hl=en&tab=wo#

If it's any trouble for you, just upload the .xls file and I'll post them via google for you, no trouble ;)

Adnoh

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« Reply #8 on: April 02, 2008, 05:01:35 PM »
some pics.

Adnoh

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« Reply #9 on: April 02, 2008, 05:07:42 PM »
some better ones

Adnoh

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« Reply #10 on: April 02, 2008, 05:15:31 PM »
inside case.

Adnoh

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« Reply #11 on: April 02, 2008, 05:22:26 PM »
some clean up

Moskito

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« Reply #12 on: April 02, 2008, 05:57:52 PM »
Ewww!  Bottom end bearings make a mess!

It's good that it didn't knock out the bottom of the crank case.  

It's fairly common for the rod to beat it pretty badly when the bearings go out.  

Fortunately it's pretty easy to weld the cases back up.
Moskito - Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming \'WOW-What a Ride!\'

PilotHawK

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« Reply #13 on: April 04, 2008, 05:11:23 AM »
Looks like it might be a little late, but locktite makes a product to help retain the bearing in the cup if they MIGHT be a little on the looses side for a tight interference fit.

I assume that since you either polished or sanded the damaged areas of the case where the bearings seat  this stuff wouldn't be a bad idea. Its called bearing and sleeve retainer. Its green and it seems to work really well when I've used it before. If you need a specifig locktite part number I'll look around and see if I can find the tub I have laying around here somewhere.

Adnoh

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« Reply #14 on: April 04, 2008, 04:17:45 PM »
The mains where not damaged just the rod big end. I use  locktight on the mains and the crank so the dont spin in or on things. I had to push crank out of the mains and then push mains out of case.  I have new crank, bearing and seal going back in. I fell if it did no lock up when it did more case damage may have accured when it let loose. I have a tool shop fix and caase damages when I rebuild if needen. The make magnisum tools so the can weld back material if needed then I machine them to what I need. The head will get cleaned up and taken there to be welded than I will recut. If ya have any old case that need fixen I would be interested in taken off your hands. The green lock tight you mention. Does it work better then red and blue?  I refer the locktight to secert sauce when used on bottom end some freak when you mention that you wipe down the outside of the bearing when installing. Any other tip? I'am always interested. Thanks.