Author Topic: 350 spacer plate  (Read 1585 times)

nuke em

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350 spacer plate
« on: January 17, 2007, 05:42:25 PM »
Anyone ever make a spacer plate for a 350 or know where/how much it costs to have one made?

Thanks,
Gary

nuke em

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350 spacer plate
« Reply #1 on: February 10, 2007, 10:54:11 AM »
I finally found a place(www.coppergaskets.com) and got the spacer in. He said I could get aluminium or copper so I went with copper. Lani was a great guy to deal with. He said if anything was wrong he would fix it for free or refund my money($30 shipped). He did a fine job of machining it, I will have to blend it to match the custom port later today work though. Here are a few pictures...

PilotHawK

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350 spacer plate
« Reply #2 on: February 10, 2007, 07:13:16 PM »
That looks good, and you can't beat the price. You should be able to get that cleaned up in no time.

nuke em

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350 spacer plate
« Reply #3 on: February 10, 2007, 07:48:20 PM »
I ran into a snag, my usual luck. I got everything cleaned up, blended together smoothly, even opened up and sharpened the transfers and smoothed everything else, slapped it all together, checked the squishband...almost identical to what I had before. Perfect! Bolted in the new ESR reeds and billet intake for a quick leakdown on the bench before I drop it in the buggy. SSSSssssssssssss! DAMN! and it leaked out as fast as I put it in. I have never had one this bad ever. It was the main crank seal behind the counter balancer gear. It looks fine, its fully seated, the wire coil is still in the seal lip but it leaks horribly against the crank all the way around. I smeared some oil on it when I put it together last spring. The seals should last alot longer than one season. I am pretty sure thats why I holed the piston at the track last November.

The crank is solid(no play), I don't know. There was a big discussion on one of the boards last year about which way that seal installed, so I just installed it the way the old one came out. Hope I can get that seal in before I leave for the dune trip(next Saturday). I am a little nervous about the cylinder studs being a little short with the spacer on. I am getting about 2/3 of the threads in the nut before torqing, what do you guys think? Longer studs are probably the smart thing to do huh. Here are a few more pics...

Weed

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350 spacer plate
« Reply #4 on: February 10, 2007, 09:20:29 PM »
I would (if you can) remove the jug and back the studs out two turns so the nut will fully thread.  The studs are really long and it won't hurt if they are not bottomed out.  

I have a seal in stock if you want me to ship Monday morning, I'll overnight it if you want.

nuke em

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350 spacer plate
« Reply #5 on: February 10, 2007, 09:30:02 PM »
That would be great if you could send me a seal. Damned local Honda guy is closed on Mondays. I'll replace it for you when I get my seals in. I am going to make up a batch of elk jerky this week for my trip, I will send you another bag if you want some more. I owe you yet another favor Curtis. :wink:

Great idea on moving the studs up a couple of turns. I'll put a drop of strong loctite on the threads, just to be sure they don't move on me.