Author Topic: 420/350 pictures  (Read 4556 times)

nuke em

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« on: March 30, 2006, 11:49:45 PM »
Here are a few pictures from today. I can not find my 102C bolt, guess I will have to buy another one. Does anyone recognize the Mikuni carb? Its a 40MM but I am a Kiehin guy and will need to buy jets if I start using it. Fed and I spent alot of the day trying to make the tach work on my normal rider, to no avail also(DAMN). Rebuilt another driven clutch, swapped some of Feds rims and tires around. I need to fab up a panel to mount all the guages and switches to. Still have lots to do but thought someone may like to see some pictures.

Gary

ludedude

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« Reply #1 on: March 31, 2006, 05:04:09 AM »
AWESOME! Thanks for the pics...keep us updated ;)

Moskito

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« Reply #2 on: March 31, 2006, 06:45:03 AM »
Looks like a TMX. - check http://www.sudco.com.  They have exploded views of the TMX.

Is that engine out of the Polaris quad?  It looks just like the engine in the ATV Racing single seater.
Moskito - Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming \'WOW-What a Ride!\'

nuke em

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« Reply #3 on: March 31, 2006, 08:53:49 AM »
Thanks Moskito. The carb is a TM but it said that a 38MM was the biggest they made. It must be bored out. There is also a treaded (plugged) hole for a dial-a-jet or maybe NOS too in the bell.

As far as a Polaris engine,could be but I do not think so. All the transfers, intake and exhaust ports/routing are identical to a 350. Its my belief that this a 350 jug, bored to except a very large sleeve, ground down the air fins and has a water jacket welded to the outside. There is alot of evidence of the welding(not cast). I did some research last fall on it and there was a guy named Leckich down in Texas who started a company and raced them. He died a few years ago and the business folded. Someone on Kiowas board knew him well a was going to send me alot of info but must have forgot.

nuke em

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« Reply #4 on: March 31, 2006, 09:23:57 AM »
The guy welded on all kinds of crap directly to the frame on this thing. I cut off everything but the tow hitch and the guage mounting plate, and the hitch will probably come off soon too(cracked my shin too many times,LOL).

If you like lots of pictures Ludedude, I'll keep posting my progress. I sometimes need the encouragement when thing don't go the way they should.  I have a reverse light to hook in. I am going to add the LED brake light and tail light (dim) like I did to my other rider 350. I have a fuel sensor that is going in to let me know when I have 1/4 tank left. Feel free to offer suggestions, I love new/better ideas.

Gary

ludedude

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« Reply #5 on: March 31, 2006, 12:10:17 PM »
Quote
If you like lots of pictures Ludedude, I'll keep posting my progress. I sometimes need the encouragement when thing don't go the way they should.


Yup! Keep the pictures coming!

MMM, fuel sensor...cool! I like that. How will you determine where to mount it? Pour 5 litres of water in the tank...keep drilling holes until the water starts coming out!?  :lol:  :lol:

FL670R

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« Reply #6 on: March 31, 2006, 12:23:18 PM »
So you gave up on the TACH ????

I figured you'd trace Feds wiring and tell us all how and where it should be hooked to the FL350...

PS
I suppose I'll have to go buy a FL350 now -  :-)

Moskito

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« Reply #7 on: March 31, 2006, 03:38:33 PM »
Quote from: "Nuke Em"
Thanks Moskito. The carb is a TM but it said that a 38MM was the biggest they made. It must be bored out. There is also a treaded (plugged) hole for a dial-a-jet or maybe NOS too in the bell.


TM/TMX - same thing, more or less.  If it's a 40, then it's probably a Pro-series TM/TMX - Sudco does them.  It's a bored 38

You are correct, the hole is for a dial-a-jet setup.

Quote from: "Nuke Em"
As far as a Polaris engine,could be but I do not think so. All the transfers, intake and exhaust ports/routing are identical to a 350. Its my belief that this a 350 jug, bored to except a very large sleeve, ground down the air fins and has a water jacket welded to the outside. There is alot of evidence of the welding(not cast). I did some research last fall on it and there was a guy named Leckich down in Texas who started a company and raced them. He died a few years ago and the business folded. Someone on Kiowas board knew him well a was going to send me alot of info but must have forgot.
Interesting.  I figured it was something totally different.
Moskito - Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming \'WOW-What a Ride!\'

Weed

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« Reply #8 on: March 31, 2006, 05:25:16 PM »
Yep it is a TM.  I have a 34mm on my 350 ody.  I like it, easy to tune and snappy.   The only thing I don't like about it is that it doesn't look as nice as the Keihin.  The aluminum casting isn't as clean and defined.

I just bought a Keihin PWM off ebay a while back to test.  I don't think I have heard of anyone having one on a Pilot or a Ody.  It is bored to a 40mm and has a Dial-a-jet epoxied onto the side.  Real nice craftmanship on the machine work and d-a-j install.  This one is going on the new Pilot when I get a new POWERPROS pipe from Lude.  (I'm saving my nickels and dimes)  

BTW you got that thing running yet?

nuke em

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« Reply #9 on: March 31, 2006, 06:37:40 PM »
Quote from: "Weed"
The only thing I don't like about it is that it doesn't look as nice as the Keihin. The aluminum casting isn't as clean and defined.


I know what you mean, I like the Kiehin looks too. I run a polished 39 PWK on my other 350. It had a dial-a-jet and has a nitrious port too.

I have not fired it yet. I will this weekend. I may have to use a stock clutch until I get another 102c mounting bolt.

Hey Dennis, I have not given up yet. We tapped into the yellow black coil wire. The ACC light flickered dimmly but the tack did not move. Next we tried the black/red wire, the ACC light flickered very brightly, no tach movement and the engine would not fire. We next tried the blue yellow off the pulse gen with the same crappy results. We were using the tachs yellow as a hot and brown as frame ground. Something isn't right with that. I had a voltage tickle while touching the mounting studs once. Scared me too LOL. How about yellow to a 12 volt source, brown to the pulse and mounting studs to ground?

As far as the fuel sensor, I am trying to find the right threaded metric nut to weld on. No one in town has it. I'll take lots of pictures when I assemble it.

nuke em

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« Reply #10 on: March 31, 2006, 07:09:22 PM »
Here is a link to an almost exact led strip that I have. Works like a champ. I added a 330 ohm/ 5 watt resistor to the stock tail light wire which made a nice half power tail light. I ran a pair of micro switches in parallel  to the wire just above the resistor. Hit either brake and you get full power brake lights that you even in bright daylights. I simply attached it to a piece of light angle iron to protect and enhance the lights(shaded). Its been on for several years and even took the double end-o with no damage. I have some pictures of the switchs and mounting if anyone want to look.
Gary

Ebay link

ludedude

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« Reply #11 on: March 31, 2006, 10:50:51 PM »
yup...post the pics ;)

PS...I cleaned up a couple of your posts  :P  did the url link thing on the Ebay link and fixed your quotation in the post above that...you had the text quoted, including your own ;)

nuke em

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« Reply #12 on: March 31, 2006, 11:07:05 PM »
Thanks man, I am a computer caveman,  and still type with one finger too(but quickly). LOL

Here is a few pictures from back around 2002 when I made these brakelight switches. Not very pretty but they do not show either, and they work great. I would like to experiment with a motorcycle hydrolic brake sw to see if it will work. Anyone have one to sell?

Moskito

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« Reply #13 on: April 01, 2006, 06:11:39 AM »
Quote from: "Nuke Em"
I would like to experiment with a motorcycle hydrolic brake sw to see if it will work. Anyone have one to sell?
PM me your address.  I have one still brand new in the package - it came with something I ordered and I have no use for it.  It's yours for the asking.

It's made by K&S Technologies.  Part number 12-0011.

Uh-oh...  It's a 10 x 1.0 mm thread pitch.  I think Honda's 10 x 1.25 mm  You may want to check your banjo bolts sizes before I sent it.

Hey, what are the wires that come out of the tach???  Colors?  How many?  

Go with the obvious of power, ground and leave the back light alone for the time being.  Ground to the engine instead of the frame.

Sensor should be able to pick up off of the generator line coming out of the engine, before the regulator or off of the line that goes to the coil for the spark plug.

Just throwing out ideas...
Moskito - Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming \'WOW-What a Ride!\'

nuke em

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« Reply #14 on: April 01, 2006, 08:38:19 AM »
Here are some pictures. Any tach suggestions would be appreciated.

Do you think someone makes an adapter for the threads on the switch? I'll check my honda threads today too. Hey Weed, is there anything in that Cat reference book?