I'm going to try and put together all the information I used in the conversion into this one thread so that people can use this thread as a reference instead of wading through 10+ pages of the discussion thread
Had to cut the battery tray off to allow the removed of the clutch Rolling Eyes There's surprising little spline area in the pilot driven....I'm using all of it, but the spline on the shaft is a lot longer.
I put a 1" piece in the end of the pilot spline tube, and welded it. Had to turn it down to the same diameter as the AC so the back sheave could slide over it, as I had to remove some material from the AC clutch. Put a key way in it and the AC slides on to that now, I'll weld the two together I imagine.
The tranny is hard mounted to the engine, both are mounted with rubber engine mounts. I was thinking of removing them and replacing them with poly and a steel inner bushing.
I picked up an Arctic Cat belt.....
Ended up getting a:
0227-030 which is 43-1/2" +/-3/16 length, 1-3/8 wide fits '88 Panther and others, which run a 10.2" C2C
Extended Life equivalent = 0627-002 43-3/8" +/-3/16 length 1-3/8" wide. ($25 more...try the cheaper one first LOL)
Looks like none of the Double-Cog high performance or Double-Cog high performance w/Hard Compound are available in the 43-1/2 - 43-5/8 lengths Sad
At first look, I think the belt length looks good. Nicely between the 600 belt and the pilot belt.
I THINK I have figured out what I'll end up doing. If I can find a flange bearing with a 35-36mm ID. I'm going to run a support from the clutch side upper tranny mount, passing around (shaft through brace in flange bearing) the driven shaft to the upper engine/tranny bolt that I had made into a stub for the attempt at the DezTaz type support. It will slide over that stub with a short tube in the end of the brace, and a bracket off the top for a torque mount just as was in the sled.
The engine cradle bolts into the stock pilot front mounts just like the 400 does. In the rear. the cradle has a pipe with two (one on either end) of the front engine rubber isolators in it. The engine to tranny mounting plates are used...no changes made to them....the top bolt has been replaced with a longer bolt with a shoulder on it which fits snug into the plate and then has steps up in diameter to form a stub shaft that the clutch support will mount on. The engine bolts down into the cradle using the four threaded holes in the bottom of the crankcase (not used in the sled) as well as the front mount clutch side, rear mount magneto side and the clutch support will incorporate the torque rod, putting it in the same place as it was when in the sled.
I only had to cut off the battery tray and support gusset so far. Had to remove them to allow for belt changes. I have to check on the how far the driven opens and how close it comes to the upper caliper mounting bolt....I think I'll have to replace that bolt with a modified bolt. Sunken Allen with a shoulder to grab the caliper.
The exhaust design has changed from duals back to a 2-into-1 design. Seems the aftermarket pipes we thought we had access to for copying were not from a 600 but a 800 triple..duh-oh! Plus going 2-into-1 is going to allow use of the original tank location and thereby more tank volume.....can't wait to see how much this tank is going to hold! It's .....85% mocked up in Styrofoam now..waiting on some "J" pipe for the exhaust for now. The first section of the exhaust needs to be made so the tank can be made to clearance the pipes as they exit the cylinders and wrap around over the clutches. It's looking like...guesstimating that the tank will be 6 gallons+, and an additional ~1 gallon integrated for oil injection storage Wink.
Some highlights:
Looks like (aiming for this) the tank will pull out easily from the cabin with only the seat removed.
Integrated oil reservoir for injection oil
Tank drain plug
Pick-up wells on either side of tank (tank wraps around seat and up into OEM airbox location)
Integrated heat shield for seat (removing seat heat shield)
Integrated clutch/belt guard for primary clutch
Oil tank level check tube
Going to get my Digatron setup for dual EGT's to monitor both cylinders independently.
Tank, and air intake will be made from aluminum, the pipe will be steel.
I got the throttle cable modified to accept the Arctic Cat's dual cable (throttle and oil injection). The cable sticking out of the pilot cable is a lot longer than what sticks out of the sled's cable sleeve. I pulled the junction box apart, remove the thumb throttle and the top piece. I machined a new top piece and added a long "tower" to take up the extra length in the pilot cable.
Got some copper tubing to re-route the water line from the water pump under the engine and up the backside(out of the way of the tank) and soldered some of it up.
The lighting coil is listed as a 12V/175W...all other electrical has their own coils...fuel pump coil, injector coil, ignition charge coil, and timing sensor...so the 175W should be true wattage available for lighting.....the pilots are 200W at 5000rpm.....so.....would they be about the same...25 watts for electrical...175 for battery charging and lights??
Without looking at the manual yea I believe so
The Mag should have separate leads for both the ignition and the lighting, you should only have to run the lighting lead thru the regulator/rectifier
I also believe your correct honda used a combo regulator/rectifier
I did tie the cat into the FL350 wiring and I ran two 55watt lights if my crusty memory is correct...
I guess I should have taken better notes...
well.....the whole handle bar (thumb and hand warmers), kill switch dash and light, harness can be left off...so I think....had spark without it. The kill switch and key switch kill the engine when closed. The key switch is part of the ECU harness (open for run, closed for kill). so I can wire in a key, or toggle switch to kill it for testing.
Think I'll wire the fuel or parking brake indicator light in as the engine water temp warning light from the sled sensor and leave the rad sensor wired into the OEM dash water temp warning light.
If I can tie the sled magneto directly into the pilot regulator, using the pilot lighting should be easy enough....
Id say you leave the outer most Yellow on the FL400 Regulator unhooked and hook the two cat Yellows from the Mag to 1-1 with the two Yellows on the FL400 Regulator
Why
Looking at the FL400 wiring diagram there are actually 4 yellows AC being feed from the FL400 Alt/mag (but two are from the same winding)
Of the two one runs to the CDI unit and feeds the Coil while the other feeds the outermost yellow on the FL400 Regulator
The other two yellows on the FL400 simply run to the regulator and then 1 powers the lighting circuit 12DC (Black wire) and 1 powers/charges the battery(Red)
The Cat mag runs different color wire (IE not yellow) to the ECU for the coil
The two yellows on the cat are both for lighting and thus on a FL400 will need to be converted to DC for the lights
Man its been a while since I did this to my FL350 and the FL400 is slightly different as far as wiring so I can't take any responsibility for this....
Maybe some others will chime in on it Shocked
PS
maybe you can hook up the FL400 regulator to the yellows from the cat mag and Green to ground/engine and nothing else then put a volt meter on Black or Red of the regulator to make sure you are getting a 12v DC reading while the engine runs...
You could then add the third yellow on the FL400 regulator to one of the yellows from the cat mag and see if it makes any difference - It should not because the regulator is grounded and any excess AC current not converted to 12v DC should just be put to ground...
PSS
I believe the mistake I made with the limp home mode was connecting the violet and Black/White wires together on the ECU
I believe closing this circuit caused ECU to force the Throttle sensor to only register a little thus the motor would not rev up...
(Cat dealer thought my "Throttle position" sensor was bad but he said he had never heard of one failing)
Cool
That's my .02 - Don't know if it helps any
