Author Topic: FL350 Rebuild recommendations  (Read 35631 times)

hub350

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She runs good
« Reply #30 on: May 27, 2009, 11:36:43 AM »
Took her out and broke her in. It was great! After the break in, me and my boys went out for a ride around the neighborhood to any empty lot and tore it up. My boys have FL250's - sure is nice to be able to go faster than them. Was pretty cool to see my boy?s one on each side of me racing with ear to ear grins. I can't wait to go to Little Sarah at the end of July.
We were going to go up to the Red River for the day on Memorial Day but one of my sons rear tires ripped and was not repairable. Oh well ...what a blast we had in the neighborhood!! Thanks for everyone?s input.

redskinman

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FL350 Rebuild recommendations
« Reply #31 on: May 29, 2009, 05:35:01 AM »
glad to see you got it running,I too am going thru my first rebuild attempt on any engine,tell me,when putting on the cylinder head,did you go with the 3 gaskets together or 1 of the gaskets,I'm getting different opinions on this

hub350

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One Gasket
« Reply #32 on: May 29, 2009, 06:14:02 AM »
I went with just one gasket. The motor starts on the first crank. Its really unbelieveable. 1/2 a pull on the manual starter as well. After having 250's and pulling my guts out -it truely amazing.

Only issue I am working on now is why the clutch doesn't engage sooner. I have to revv it pretty good before it engages - any advise - Can I adjust it?

hub350

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My three
« Reply #33 on: May 29, 2009, 07:12:42 AM »
Here s a pic of the 2 FL250's and the FL350 I just put back togetherr.

FL670R

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Re: One Gasket
« Reply #34 on: May 29, 2009, 12:45:02 PM »
Quote from: "hub350"
I went with just one gasket. The motor starts on the first crank. Its really unbelieveable. 1/2 a pull on the manual starter as well. After having 250's and pulling my guts out -it truely amazing.

Only issue I am working on now is why the clutch doesn't engage sooner. I have to revv it pretty good before it engages - any advise - Can I adjust it?



There is no adjustment on the stock FL350 drive clutch...
How new is the belt ???

How high do you have to rev it to get the clutch to engage ?
(Shouldn't take much over 1/4 throttle)

If the stock clutch is not shifting smoothly it could have warn or bad spots on the rollers not allowing it close without excess force...

Take the belt off and see if you can push it together or if its hanging up in the open position.
If you lubricate the rollers make sure you use a non dust collecting spray (ie not WD40 or oils) something like Comet Clutch Lube.

If you replace it I'd highly recommend the Comet 94C (Great Clutch)
but as others have said - getting works rear shocks should be one of your top priories.

Keep us posted
Dennis

redskinman

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Re: One Gasket
« Reply #35 on: May 29, 2009, 06:52:06 PM »
Quote from: "hub350"
I went with just one gasket. The motor starts on the first crank. Its really unbelieveable. 1/2 a pull on the manual starter as well. After having 250's and pulling my guts out -it truely amazing.

Only issue I am working on now is why the clutch doesn't engage sooner. I have to revv it pretty good before it engages - any advise - Can I adjust it?


Ive had my ody about 4 months now,its been broken for most of that time,had about 30 minutes of drivetime before kaput,and my clutch did kind of the same thing.You would have to rev the engine to get it to engage.In the down time of the engine not running I've pulled clutch{stock} and dissasembled and lubed it with comet clutch lube,I'm hoping once I get it running this made a difference.
I too went with the one gasket,I'm hoping thats the best

hub350

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Re: One Gasket
« Reply #36 on: May 29, 2009, 08:04:05 PM »
Quote from: "redskinman"
Quote from: "hub350"
I went with just one gasket. The motor starts on the first crank. Its really unbelieveable. 1/2 a pull on the manual starter as well. After having 250's and pulling my guts out -it truely amazing.

Only issue I am working on now is why the clutch doesn't engage sooner. I have to revv it pretty good before it engages - any advise - Can I adjust it?


Ive had my ody about 4 months now,its been broken for most of that time,had about 30 minutes of drivetime before kaput,and my clutch did kind of the same thing.You would have to rev the engine to get it to engage.In the down time of the engine not running I've pulled clutch{stock} and dissasembled and lubed it with comet clutch lube,I'm hoping once I get it running this made a difference.
I too went with the one gasket,I'm hoping thats the best



So I do have the Comet 94C clutch. Is the 94C adjustable so it engages sooner? I mean its not bad, it do engage but seems like I have to give much more gas compared to a 250. Maybe its the transmission clutch?

redskinman

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Re: One Gasket
« Reply #37 on: May 30, 2009, 08:56:35 PM »
Quote from: "hub350"
Quote from: "redskinman"
Quote from: "hub350"
I went with just one gasket. The motor starts on the first crank. Its really unbelieveable. 1/2 a pull on the manual starter as well. After having 250's and pulling my guts out -it truely amazing.

Only issue I am working on now is why the clutch doesn't engage sooner. I have to revv it pretty good before it engages - any advise - Can I adjust it?


Ive had my ody about 4 months now,its been broken for most of that time,had about 30 minutes of drivetime before kaput,and my clutch did kind of the same thing.You would have to rev the engine to get it to engage.In the down time of the engine not running I've pulled clutch{stock} and dissasembled and lubed it with comet clutch lube,I'm hoping once I get it running this made a difference.
I too went with the one gasket,I'm hoping thats the best



So I do have the Comet 94C clutch. Is the 94C adjustable so it engages sooner? I mean its not bad, it do engage but seems like I have to give much more gas compared to a 250. Maybe its the transmission clutch?


I dont know hardly anything about these odys,but from what i can gather I think you can buy different springs for that clutch to get it how you want it.I think the comet 102 clutch has more tuning capabilities,but I'm not sure of that.Ody salvage sells parts for your clutch
Comet 94-c Pucks (set of 6)   will change the stall speed for a verity of riding $ 15.50set
               Comet 94c Drive spring   (350) orange    will keep the stall speed  near stock    (3450 rpm) $ 14.50ea
               Comet 94c Drive spring   (350) Yellow    will raise the stall speed  to mid range  (4100 rpm) $ 14.50ea
               Comet 94c Drive spring   (350) White    will raise the stall speed  for racing   change pucks too    (4700 rpm) $ 14.50ea


I asked the same question about getting it in gear and was told all 350s you have to blip the throttle to get them to engage

hub350

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First big ride
« Reply #38 on: June 07, 2009, 07:11:08 AM »
So I took my boys to the Red River ATV park to ride yesterday and we had a great time. My 350 did pretty good but had a few problems. The spark plug fowled out pretty bad. I am suspecting the Carb is too small and am having issues there. Can some help read my sparkplug to confirm. NGK BR8ES The plug had alot of build up on it and the color is grey in color.(click on the pics to enlarge)  Also checked the compression on the first ride and it was around 90-100 and the second ride it was 110-120. Since I have put it back together, I have run about two tanks of gas through it. I am going to go to a Keihin 36MM carb -where would I get needle sets. Any advise would be appreciated.

Another question as it related to the throttle. After an hour of riding that thumb throttle took its toll. Should the throttle be easy to push down or should there be resistance?  Maybe its time for a new throttle cable. Seems to work find but after a while it strains the thumb. Thanks

hub350

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Re: First big ride
« Reply #39 on: June 07, 2009, 07:34:11 AM »
Quote from: "hub350"
So I took my boys to the Red River ATV park to ride yesterday and we had a great time. My 350 did pretty good but had a few problems. The spark plug fowled out pretty bad. I am suspecting the Carb is too small and am having issues there. Can some help read my sparkplug to confirm. NGK BR8ES The plug had alot of build up on it and the color is grey in color.(click on the pics to enlarge)  Also checked the compression on the first ride and it was around 90-100 and the second ride it was 110-120. Since I have put it back together, I have run about two tanks of gas through it. I am going to go to a Keihin 36MM carb -where would I get needle sets. Any advise would be appreciated.

Another question as it related to the throttle. After an hour of riding that thumb throttle took its toll. Should the throttle be easy to push down or should there be resistance?  Maybe its time for a new throttle cable. Seems to work find but after a while it strains the thumb. Thanks


Found this - this doesn't look too good. "Never try to jet too close to a best-power mixture until after you've taken care of spark advance. As previously noted, the air/fuel ratio that yields maximum power is only a shade richer than the one that is most detonation-prone; fortunately, the plug will tell you when there has been even slight detonation inside your engine. The signs to look for are pepper-like black specks on the insulator nose, and tiny balls of aluminum concentrated mostly around the center electrode's tip. Severe detonation will blast a lot of aluminum off the piston crown, and give the plug a gray coating-which is a portent of death for the engine. A few engines will show just a trace of detonation when jetted and sparked for maximum power, but that never produces anything more than a few miniscule spots of aluminum gathered on the center electrode's sharp edges. If you see more aluminum and an extensive peppering evident on your plug, you're in trouble."

PilotHawK

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FL350 Rebuild recommendations
« Reply #40 on: June 07, 2009, 07:19:31 PM »
A bigger carb is not the issue. You need to adjust your jetting. You may have to re-ring or even install a new piston in this motor. 90-100 pounds of compression is too low for a 350.

With 2 strokes jetting is the key to long life. You could put a holley 4 barrel on the engine and it wouldn't make a difference as to how it runs if it isn't jetted correctly.

Take a look at this article in order to get a better grip on jetting.
http://www.yellowdogracing.com/techstuff.htm]

This book is fantastic and even though its old most of the information is still very valid!
http://g2buggy.g2-innovations.com/gentech/manuals/2stroketunershandbook.pdf

Unfortunately I have to say I think a rebuild is in your near future.

Before you tear it down do a leak down test on it to see if you had air leaking into the engine causing the lean condition.

hub350

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FL350 Rebuild recommendations
« Reply #41 on: June 08, 2009, 09:33:42 AM »
Quote from: "PilotHawK"
A bigger carb is not the issue. You need to adjust your jetting. You may have to re-ring or even install a new piston in this motor. 90-100 pounds of compression is too low for a 350.

With 2 strokes jetting is the key to long life. You could put a holley 4 barrel on the engine and it wouldn't make a difference as to how it runs if it isn't jetted correctly.

Take a look at this article in order to get a better grip on jetting.
http://www.yellowdogracing.com/techstuff.htm]

This book is fantastic and even though its old most of the information is still very valid!
http://g2buggy.g2-innovations.com/gentech/manuals/2stroketunershandbook.pdf

Unfortunately I have to say I think a rebuild is in your near future.

Before you tear it down do a leak down test on it to see if you had air leaking into the engine causing the lean condition.


Thanks will do - did a little research and found this. I think I have a leak - did a little rejetting and no change. I am going to do a leak test - http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-506699.html

Did another compression test and its at 90.

redskinman

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« Reply #42 on: June 08, 2009, 10:49:56 AM »
that really sucks,I thought that compression was way too low but i didnt want to say anything till the experts weighed in.What do you have like 2 hrs on it since the new top end?
I'm just finishing my top end and havent done a leak down test either,people have told me i'm going to regret it If i dont do it

PilotHawK

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« Reply #43 on: June 08, 2009, 03:03:51 PM »
you can build a leak tester for less than $30. A new top-end or worse will cost many times that much.

redskinman

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FL350 Rebuild recommendations
« Reply #44 on: July 02, 2009, 09:45:20 PM »
any updates?