Ok I Did The Leak Test Using The Information Randy From Odyssey Salvage Emailed Me Here Is What He Sent Me.
There are several ways to go about this and this way seems to be the easiest and cheapest for the average guy.
You will need the following parts:
vacuum brake bleeder kit (Plastic one is the best because it can be reversed and blow pressure)
1/4 fuel line
rubber plumbing plug for intake manifold
rubber plumbing plug for exhaust manifold
Ok its best to take the exhaust manifold off and seal the exhaust gasket with silicone for the time being so it does not allow leakage. While you have the manifold off, clean out the exhaust manifold using an cyln. brake hone. Then coat with oil or silicone and install plug.
Its best to take the intake manifold gaskets and coat them with motor oil to make sure they have a good seal and can be re-used. On the intake manifold just coat with oil and install plug.
Use the vacuum line into the engine that runs the fuel pump to hook your vacuum brake bleeder up to. For now just use the vacuum bleeder and take it to -6 lbs. It may take up to 5 minuets for the pressure to equalize out above and below the rings. Once that has happen then it should hold the -6 lbs for a minimum of 10 minuets.
IF you do have a leak you can reverse you vacuum bleeder tool and blow pressure into the engine. Then using a bottle of soap water you can try to locate your leak.
There Was No Leak It Held Pressure For 10 Minutes. What Else Could Be Causing This? A Friend Of Mine That Works At The Local Motorcycle Shop And The Guy That Put My Top End Together Said He Didnt Think It Was A Leak Cause He Said If There Was A Leak It Would Idle High From The Start He Said It Might Be The Spark Plug Staying Hot And Continuing To Burn The Fuel Until You Cut Fuel Or Im Running It To Lean With The Fuel/Oil Mix But Im Running It At 32:1 Or The Carb Is Not Set Right Any More Info Would Be Helpful As To Why This Is Happening It Has Happened Twice Now And Cant Figure It Out Thanks In Advance.