Fun indead,Pilot hawk. Well I spent a couple more hours in garage and now have the stock arms with no bump kit using stock works at 9" of travle. I relocated the shock with a different lever ratio and removed the 1/4" bump stop spacer on the shaft. I removed some of the bump and tie rod frame hit by spacing up the inner rod 1/4" on steering shaft. This changed the bump at droop( extended) to were the stock was +1/16 of an inch. The stock goes from toe in at full extend to toe out mid stroke and toe in on full bump ( compressed). So far pleased with change. The bump rate is close to stock. I did say close not same. The noice thing is at whel lock theres no change. SO I fell after I set the toe for the new set up ( backing out the 1/16 inch) of toe to a static setting of 1/4" toe in it will not be noticable. This should keep the irretice steering thu woops. I Now will work on solution for stock arms for camber setting and ball joint replacement. I have an Idea borrowed for other postand this willadd 1 to 1.5 " of extension and a little added travle. The adjusted track width will help when the rear is moved out. If the front uses more travle a Bump kit will be required no exception. Heck even the bump kit will even help the stock amrs. Stock 6" hacker up to 9" thats a 33% increase. I will calculate the wheel rate change for spring set up. I hope to use the stock works rate or at least see what effect it will have. I already know I will need to change transition spacer and ride height adjustment. The plus side this should provide a greater sag and smoother ride on the tender. I will use an online calc to compare spring rate to wheel rate I calculate. I'll post up when done this may take a day or two. Gota work tommorow.
My kit actually moves in the s shape which works very well...It only takes a very small amount of movement in tie rod location either up or down or front to back to drastically change that to something undesirable...
As for the push, I don't know for sure what effects it, but it is almost non existant on my pilot with Aftershocks kit unless you are barely moving...Anything over around 5 mph +/- it is very minimal, and it turns VERY easy on the trails, sometimes too easy...lol....I can easily drive it with one hand with no effort other than me not trusting myself driving for long with 1 hand....
Just food for thought, several years ago, I had one of the 2 seat china buggys for my kids...The front was about 5 in. wider than the rear...That thing would turn on a dime with NO push at all...Not sure if the width of the front vs. the width of the rear had anything to do with the way it turned or not, but that was my thought....
I think the front improvement would be more desirable than the rear...It seems most jumps land on the front first,and with the works shocks I now have,I have no complaints what so ever with the way the rear works now...Going longer travel means for the most part making it wider, which keeping the rear no wider than it is now would be a MAJOR plus for us trail riders....
Hoodlum