Author Topic: Pilot Engine rebuild  (Read 10974 times)

ludedude

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Pilot Engine rebuild
« Reply #15 on: February 02, 2004, 01:00:33 AM »
I tried but no success. So I pulled the stator side off again. The crank pin seems to be stinking through a little too far on the stator side, opposite FROM the photo you posted. I tried to get a shot of it, but couldn't get a good one because of the shine/reflection of the crank.

So, if I take it to work and press the crank out of the clutch side, can I just press the crank pin flush? Stand the crank on end and support under one crank half and push the pin flush?

The braing on the stator side came off with the case, should I leave it in and put it back on that way again, or remove it and put it on the crank first?

Thanks for the help

Brian

hoser

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Pilot Engine rebuild
« Reply #16 on: February 02, 2004, 02:59:48 AM »
1/2-3/8" gap hmm I bet if it is that much the bearings are not all the way on the crank
or not seating in the cases fully, you using the puller setup like big tom made to pull
your crank INTO the cases?

The width of the crank is set by using the proper thrust washers and setting the gap
between them?

PJ ENGINEERING (PROX)

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Pilot Engine rebuild
« Reply #17 on: February 02, 2004, 01:29:42 PM »
Quote from: "hoser"
The width of the crank is set by using the proper thrust washers and setting the gap between them?


Honda only do 1 type of thrust washer and you set the side clearance to 0.016"- 0.031" this should make the crank width 67.92mm wide at the top of the crank where the pin is.

I take it You fitted Genuine Honda Rod and thust washers ? and Genuine honda Main bearings ?

ludedude

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« Reply #18 on: February 02, 2004, 04:42:59 PM »
I used OEM main bearings yes. Don @ PCP did the crank...gonna call him and see what he has to say

ludedude

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« Reply #19 on: February 02, 2004, 07:45:57 PM »
Didn't get a chance to call Don before leaving for work...So can I press the crank out of the clutch side case and just press the crank pin flush?

hoser

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Pilot Engine rebuild
« Reply #20 on: February 03, 2004, 03:42:50 AM »
Am I supose to see something when I go here if so what am I suppose to see?
http://www.45thparallel.net/videos/index.php?subtrack=Pilot&sub=Rebuild

Are you pulling the crank INTO the cases? Your not using bolts to pull the cases
together right?

ludedude

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« Reply #21 on: February 03, 2004, 03:58:01 AM »
Quote from: "hoser"
Am I supose to see something when I go here if so what am I suppose to see?
http://www.45thparallel.net/videos/index.php?subtrack=Pilot&sub=Rebuild

Are you pulling the crank INTO the cases? Your not using bolts to pull the cases
together right?


click ahead one video then play...it's just a video of the bearing dropping in to the case....hot and cold :)

It was the crank pin...it was not centered...pressed the crank out of the case half (clutch side) and tried pressing the pin in more on one side..ended up presing the halves together and then the rod didn't have any clearence. No its free, but I'm afraid not enough clearence. Need to look in the manual....which i forgot tonight :oops: and see if there is (hope so) specs in there for overall crank width or free play for the bottom end of the rod.

ludedude

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« Reply #22 on: February 03, 2004, 04:25:06 AM »
Found the online manual....thanks Vic!

0.001 to 0.026" clearance...service LIMIT is 0.030" I have 0.003 - 0.004" now so I'm good there. Tomorro night we'll CHECK runout...then DROP it in the freezer and the cases with bearings in the oven and assembly.....

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Pilot Engine rebuild
« Reply #23 on: February 03, 2004, 05:48:03 AM »
Quote from: "ludedude"
Found the online manual....thanks Vic!

0.001 to 0.026" clearance...service LIMIT is 0.030" I have 0.003 - 0.004" now so I'm good there. Tomorro night we'll CHECK runout...then DROP it in the freezer and the cases with bearings in the oven and assembly.....


NO THE BIG END SIDE CLEARANCE IS 0.40-0.80 mm OR 0.016" TO 0.031"

so that is 16 tho to 31 tho

This is DATA is FROM a Genuine honda Wrokshop manual

ludedude

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« Reply #24 on: February 03, 2004, 03:59:47 PM »
Quote from: "PJ ENGINEERING (PROX)"
Quote from: "ludedude"
Found the online manual....thanks Vic!

0.001 to 0.026" clearance...service LIMIT is 0.030" I have 0.003 - 0.004" now so I'm good there. Tomorro night we'll CHECK runout...then DROP it in the freezer and the cases with bearings in the oven and assembly.....


NO THE BIG END SIDE CLEARANCE IS 0.40-0.80 mm OR 0.016" TO 0.031"

so that is 16 tho to 31 tho

This is DATA is FROM a Genuine honda Wrokshop manual


Yup you're right...don't know what I was looking at.....0.016 - 0.031...service LIMIT 0.037"...that's FROM my manual...going to CHECK online one again...not sure where I got those numbers...

Emailed Moskito...got a neat tip...came FROM Jay FROM JayFab..... he said they all (Don, Jay and ATVR) use a penny on either end of the crank pin. Push them together and the penny's provide the perfect fit.... :D

We' were trying to find the right size washers...because the press would "jump" when it got enough pressure to move the halves or pin....2000-2500lbs pressure on the gauge :shock:

So we'll readjust it tonight, use pennies and see if that brings us INTO the 0.016-0.031 limit...then CHECK runout...they want to put in the lathe and make sure the halves are still aligned.....if they're not ???? :? :?

Thanks for all the help

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Pilot Engine rebuild
« Reply #25 on: February 03, 2004, 04:33:34 PM »
Hi not to sure what you mean by pennys.

I have a 50 ton Hydraulic press but it wont move in thousands of a inch no of them will, what will happen is you put pressure on then bang it will move say 2 mm.

What you need to do is LOAD it up say to 2000psi than hit the flywheel web with a copper hammer and you will se the pressure gauge drop. Are you trying to press it apart?

Have a look at this photo this is how I push mine apart put a 10mm thick plate (with a vee cut out) between the Flywheels and use a Wrist pin to push on the crank pin.

Load it up and hit Where my thumb is hit that part with a copper mallet and it will shock it apart just a few tho.

Now checking for true, You can put it in the lathe between centres but if the ends are bent then you will not get a inaccurate reading. What you need is one of these.

As you can see it runs on the bearing tracks, if you Don?t have the use of such a jig you can fit the main bearings on to the crank and place the crank with the bearings on V-blocks (let the bearings in the V-block) and the clock up both ends.

Hope this all makes sense

ludedude

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« Reply #26 on: February 03, 2004, 04:56:34 PM »
Hehe pennies are the lowest coin currency here...oh..never thought US penny may be different than CDN penny...hmmmm...can someone measure a US penny...maybe I can find one...

Thanks for the pictures...can I add them to the gallery? It all makes perfect sense....we were doing just that...but hitting it didn't move it...only more pressure...then pop...too much!


Great stuff...thanks :)

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Pilot Engine rebuild
« Reply #27 on: February 03, 2004, 05:36:11 PM »
yes you can use the photos, I ahve some of my 500cc convershion on my pilot if you want some?

hoser

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Pilot Engine rebuild
« Reply #28 on: February 03, 2004, 05:48:54 PM »
I want to see the 500cc conversion pics and details if you care to share.

You going to give him the crank alignment tips also?

ludedude

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« Reply #29 on: February 03, 2004, 06:11:32 PM »
Quote from: "PJ ENGINEERING (PROX)"
yes you can use the photos, I have some of my 500cc convershion on my pilot if you want some?


Yes please...You can email them to me...or post them on the photo gallery site...link top right corner of this site.

Thanks...

I got a CR500 cylinder and head...want to convert one for me....maybe make a deal with rims ;)