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Messages - Adnoh

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1
Pilot FL400R / reading material
« on: October 18, 2012, 05:26:46 PM »
Heres some interesting read.

2
Pilot FL400R / Re: 102c Calibrations...
« on: October 18, 2012, 05:06:03 PM »
Hers is an excert from jennings. and I will get you some eric gorrand see If I have the jennings book on pdf and post. It touches a little on angle area. Alos look at you manual and the port map in the book as well make you one next time you open her up. Maybe we should move this to another topic to keep the 102 clean.

3
Pilot FL400R / Re: 102c Calibrations...
« on: October 16, 2012, 04:53:13 PM »
Factory you have a good reason to worry about 8000 + if your CR is too high even with race fuel. I use a torgue pipe myself. As you angle area drops the engine can run leaner on the intake and the exhaust in port open time as your increse the rpm. This futher aids to detanation by way of a leaner mixture for combustion not to mention the increase in MSV. What will work to your advantage is the pilots bore size so it can run on the lowside of  the exhaust angle area.
Play it safe and move slow.
Keep your eye on the plug.
If you have a copy of jennings read up on the angle area.

4
Pilot FL400R / Re: 102c Calibrations...
« on: October 15, 2012, 04:57:50 PM »
I forgot to add I thing those guys are running the 102 so pick there brain. I bet they will help you get where you need to be.

5
Pilot FL400R / Re: 102c Calibrations...
« on: October 15, 2012, 04:28:16 PM »
12,000 rpm that a good one. you could change the bore ,stroke and rod ratio and get those numbers though. Just might be a little slower for the weight of the machine. Would reve like a _ _ bad mother. Factory you could threaten them with a budy and some spike strips that may at least get them to look twice and slow them up a touch but not for long. Last time I rod with them it help me as one goughed out his tire. It was so dusty they could not see my friend lurking in the trees. They did get even when I gernaded mine I guess pay backs a bit _ _.

As far a power block goes I can run mid8's all day long. It takes a little engine work but can be done. A little over rev never hurt either. I just dialed in a new set up and spin it in the mid eights there more to it but touch on it later. I found the best setting is what you engine math tells one they can run and then push it a touch further.

Here a pic of the vapor on a 600' pull with a rev delete I just did on a cdi to test it. It was using a power block with 12 disc. Ill try to get some video to share with an explaination of what I did.  As you can see from the engine temp the jetting was a touch rich. The rpm and mph goes up when the temp get close to 190. Upon a sustained run  longer in footage it would have easly hit mid 60's like a flat out dune crossing etc.

This is why the post interest me as it may provide a better setting than a power block can delivier .

6
Pilot FL400R / Re: 102c Calibrations...
« on: October 13, 2012, 02:45:47 PM »
Would it be ok for me to chime in a little in the interest of learing. Me that  is since I have never used these type of clutches. and I do have a little working knowledge in higher revs and power output as it peaks my interest.

7
Pilot FL400R / Re: 102c Calibrations...
« on: October 12, 2012, 12:52:33 PM »
Some good read, thanks.

8
Ride Reports / Events / Races / Re: UP ride w/RickS 09-08-12
« on: September 17, 2012, 05:27:40 PM »
cool video.  I also watched your silver lake video. Thanks for sharing I enjoyed them and look forward to seeing more.

9
General Discussion / funny dewalt nailer
« on: August 23, 2012, 03:37:32 PM »
My mom sent me this pick thought I would share.

10
Pilot FL400R / Re: Busted the cage in my inner cv on the LT
« on: July 11, 2012, 06:10:42 PM »
short vid of the clearence from full droop and cvbind

11
Pilot FL400R / Re: Busted the cage in my inner cv on the LT
« on: July 11, 2012, 05:51:22 PM »
I could not find the one you need so I went to the garge and pulled the boot and took a few. If it's not what you need let me know and I get you what you need.

12
Pilot FL400R / Re: Busted the cage in my inner cv on the LT
« on: July 10, 2012, 10:13:35 AM »
I found this one of the 16 to 16.5 range. I,ll keep diging through the files for more If anybody interested.

13
Pilot FL400R / Re: Busted the cage in my inner cv on the LT
« on: July 10, 2012, 09:42:37 AM »
couple more pics
 I think I have a few vids of the 16 to 18 inch travle less axle assemblys I'll look.

14
Pilot FL400R / Re: Busted the cage in my inner cv on the LT
« on: July 10, 2012, 09:40:45 AM »
Your welcome. I found a few pics to share. let us know what you ended up doing for futher reference.
There is some preety cool things going on in the pics if you look close. One can draw some conclusions from the pics.

15
Pilot FL400R / Re: Busted the cage in my inner cv on the LT
« on: July 10, 2012, 07:24:19 AM »
No mine does not hit either way. I built a gig so I could build my own after a few failures in the arm building dept. As you look at the pic and the distance of the CV from the face of the cup and the angle of the axle you can see how by bringin it out closer to the front the distance between the hcupand the axle increases and thus allowing additional angle or droop. There is a point where the lowers and the radius rod come into play playing a pat in cv bind in the outer joint. With adjustable units you can dial in the amont of travle and the bind point. This also plays a part in the ball joint bid of the hub assembly. As you go futher in droop the hubs vertacle set point needs to changed a little to keep it from binding. I mention this as it alos addresses the question of bind at compression. If not set correctlythe ball joint will bind before the cv at full compression. What I found was adjust things to cv bind at droop than adjus teh radius rod for 1/4" before bind and use this number as the shock extended lenght point. If you using exhisting upper shock mount points than measure the eye to eye of those point and subtract 1/8" Then move the assembly to full compression taking into acount the frams bottoming out position using the tire and wheel combonation and measure for your eye to eye for shock strok and than calculate your ride height poundage and bottom out poundage. I feel it does no good to go past framae bottoming as it can lead to a bad back and broken parts. If you have more stroke on the shock than your bottom out point than you need to add bump stops or shaft spacers unless you use  tire combnation that allowes for a increase in the bottom out number. Now looking at this there is more advantage in droop in relation to overall travle and it's set point. As you set up your rear arms using what ever combo this should be taken into account. I my case I not olny move the arm out I moved it back. It changes the rear asemblys arc of travle and balance front to rear. I'm not saying do this it just work for me and my set up. I was playing with an adjustable upper arm using a hiem in place of the no longeravalible ball joint however the increae in arm travle can not be matched to a a cv set up as yet. I can easly get 16 to 18" out of it. I think Odypilots on the correct path by limiting his travle via the shock for his set up. if he was to move the mount up to fix the bind at droop it would cause an issue in his bottom out point and could hurt. I pull a few more pics from the file on compression of the cv and axle to compare to the one I posted on droop. The axle plung is great. I also have a few pick using an angle finder to calculate the max anlges and the running angles of the stock axle assembly with the atvr axle.  If would evere cool off I will do some video to go with this discussiona dn some clearenc pic of the atvr and the longer upper.  Hopefully some one can build on this and improve the exhisting application.

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