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Topics - Adnoh

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1
Pilot FL400R / reading material
« on: October 18, 2012, 05:26:46 PM »
Heres some interesting read.

2
General Discussion / funny dewalt nailer
« on: August 23, 2012, 03:37:32 PM »
My mom sent me this pick thought I would share.

3
Wanted: / fl 400 steering colum
« on: December 31, 2011, 08:24:01 AM »
Looking for a steering colum for EZ-71. He had a rut ru and bent his. He has a new shaft and parts however the column need to be replaced.

4
Pilot FL400R / stix's new engine
« on: December 27, 2011, 06:44:47 PM »
Stix sold one of his pilots and bought him self a project in place of it after dunning a quads and "said not for me". Thought I would share some ugly pics of the cylinder. He has ask me to clean it up fit a new piston and go ahead and do a little moding. So I went to OKC and picked up teh rest of teh engine to have some fun. I'll post up pics of the rest of the rebuild as it progesses now that christmas is over and have more time to play.

These are pics of teh cylinder the way he bought it.

5
Odyssey FL350R / CCR work sheet
« on: May 11, 2011, 05:41:46 PM »
I worked up a corrected compression ratio work sheet for the 350. The spreed sheet will give you an idea of the CCR of what you have and what the changes are or effects of propossed changes. This one is for stock base gasket only.

Enter your bore 80 for 80mm ect
Enter your storke 68
Enter 125.4 for rod or your rod used in case of long rod
Enter you head volume in cc's
Enter head gasket ID
Enter head gasket crushed thickness
Enter the deck, the distance from piston crown edge to top of cylinder
Enter the piston dome volume Use bore x 0.17475 for a wiesco that will get you close.
Enter the distance from top of the cylinder to the top of the transfer ports ( if ports are all diff than average the number)
Enter the distance from the top of the cyliinder to the top of the exhasut port.

This wil give you a corrected compression ratio and will also give corrected degrees of port open via piston positions and blow down degrees. Thenn you can look down the chart and see what a ex open port change will do to CCR and blown down degrees.

This is important to log as you over bore a cylinder due to the ports roof gets lower as it is over bored due to it's at an angle. It will alos raise the CCR due to the bore is larger and the effective stroke has changed. The blown down timng also chages as the the top of the exhasut port roof lowers.

IF you enter all the correct information you can  have an idea of this effect.

First you can change the bore  than the efficitve stroke or head gasket thickness in combonation with the others and see the results. This is not an quide to use as it's just Back Yard Hacker math. But it will give you an idea how the engine is effected. This will also remove some of the guess work involved.

Remember this is CCR only and MSV is also effected which is another sheet and topic.

Tip: the stock CCR of a stock post recall ody is 6 to 1

Some have some fun and play with the spreedsheet. I'll do my best to ansawer any question as they arise. I then will add to this sheet as we look at the durations, mean line for time area and angle area for power bands.

I have locked up the sheet for now so any one can play with changing up the calculations.

6
Technical / FNR rpm nock off
« on: January 06, 2011, 07:28:31 AM »
Info listed with box:

INPUT:  1"  W/ 1/4" KEYWAY
OUTPUT:  930 CV JOINT  
POWER RATING:  170 HP
GEARS HARDENED:  50 ROCKWELL
CASING:  ALUMINUM CASE
GEAR RATIO:  5:1  
Perfect for your Do-it -Yourself  guys that need a forward / Neutral / reverse transmission on their go-kart, dune buggy or mini sandrail.

Q&A:

Q: Can you use a bike motor with this FNR?
A: Yes you can.
 
Q: Does the Brake come with it?
A: Yes it come with it.
 
Q: Will the bake stop the kart?
A: No it will not. It is on there to stop the
input shaft before you switch from forward
to reverse or reverse to forward.

7
General Discussion / two seat pilot mini buggy knock off
« on: January 06, 2011, 07:19:32 AM »
I was looking around and found this. It appears to be a Chinese mini buggy two seat-er that looks like a pilot. I emailed for more info and spec. Thought it may be cool to have for the grandson.  It may give those minin buggys a run for there money at St.joe for some fun. Hopefuly it will remain running for the week. MY track record so far piolt or other wise is 50/50.  Hoping for a 70/30 at least.

8
General Discussion / funny gif of cat
« on: December 16, 2010, 02:18:35 PM »
I turned a gif into a wmv for viewing. I found it as at another off road site it made me laugh and though I would share.

9
Technical / Adnoh's DCP Rear Arm Fix
« on: October 29, 2010, 09:07:19 AM »
From ride at St Joe:  "I had another issue which was whoop related, as I curt across to a side trail I hit a hole a big hole and almost threw me over. Upon returning to camp I noticed the rear arms ball joint was in a weird angle. I unloaded the suspension and seen the ball joint stud was loose and had woollard the arm pivot point. I drove back the truck which was in day use and in the 100 degree heat disassembled the rear upright and replaced the ball joint and was good to go. The taper I put on the pivot ( which I do not remember doing)must not have been correct or the stripped stud and nut allowed it to wooler to which I did not catch until I check over the suspension after the hit. All that held the nut in place was the cotter pin. Thank goodness for the cotter pin. The damage could have been severe. "

Well I finally got around to Fabing up a new style of arm to fix the angle of the pivot point on the upper rear arm. Since I use the stock shock mounting locations the ATVR style of arm will not work due the arm support hits the shock and few other reasons. What I did with Hacker 1 arm was to find a angle that allowed the rear assembly to move bind free with my set up. The one thing I did I did not like and found to be a problem was the the angle the pivot support was orientated with the upright. Since the arm need to be fixed due to the loose ball joint and the wollor on the arm I opted to make all new arms that corrected the problem and allow for more travel in the assembly before bind.

The new arm allows for 13.75 inches of assembly travel with my present I rod and radius rod positions before arm and ball joint bind. I fell If I tweak the adjustments I can get 15. Since these arms are replacement rods for the current set up It goes beyond my shock travel so I do not see the point to move at this time. While I was at it  took some shaft angles at full droop and extended, at droop the drive axle would be at 25 degrees and at compressed at 16 degrees For the 13.75 of travel. At full compression the the new arms touches the frame as the stock one would as well. The other thing on compression is there is no advantage to increase unless you use taller tires or wheels. At full bump ( compression ) the tire pretty much go flat and the frame is on the ground or real close. If this was increased without taking that into account sever injury could accrue. I will look into a 12" wheel and see if that number can be increased and increase sag to retain ride height if I look into a 14 to 15 " travel set up. The thing  have to consider is a shock relocate the the massive size and weight of the shock.

The new arms weight 1 pound less per side than the ATVR arm which translates into 2 pound total and 1 pound unsprung weight.  The new arm is Molly and uses stock frame mount points and ball joint pivot that I salvages from the Hacker 1 arms and the stock ones used to make the Hacker 1 arms.  I cut up the Hacker 1 arms to fab these in order to make a jig to make a set of full Molly with heims and bungs for adjust ability and still fit with the stock shock locations.This means I will be able to make a set for about any set up and mounting locations. The jig will have adjustability of the ball joint mounting point so I can make it work with stock/Atvr/Hacker ect. Basically move the upright were I want it. The Idea behind the heims and adjustability is to get rid of the rubber bushings in the ATVR. I wish I had the skill to make the stock type ends for durability however there no adjust ability with them.

Ok here is some pics. As always any idea are appreciated

10
Technical / Adnoh's DCP engine
« on: July 17, 2010, 08:29:16 AM »
Well as some know I had an engine failure and though I would share the damage and rebuild with everyone.

11
General Discussion / flooding
« on: May 03, 2010, 08:25:14 AM »
Hey Hood you still with us. Man that was some major rain you all got. Hope you are high and dry.

12
Pilot FL400R / easy main jet access pilot video
« on: February 07, 2010, 12:20:32 PM »
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=trxfl400&search_type=&aq=f

I posted up my way of accessing the main jet  in twelve short videos for those who struggle with it and burn, twist, scrap and throw whrenches when doing a jet change on there pilot.

Feel free to ask any question or comment on videos. Theres always a better way to do things.

I will also take sugestions on what one would like to see how the back yard hacker does it on other parts and issues as well.

Summer coming and time to hit the garage.

Any way enjoy and feel free to laugh and poke fun. Fun is what it's all about.

13
Ride Reports / Events / Races / turkey day ride at river
« on: December 06, 2009, 12:39:08 PM »
Stixs did some ridding over turkey day I took some pics from the vids to share.

15
Ride Reports / Events / Races / LS ride back in april video
« on: August 29, 2009, 07:54:07 AM »
I'am in the great state of Tennesee and was ablible to upload the video of my test ride. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOctQLJo6R8 Hope you enjoy.

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