Author Topic: FL250 Assembly Thread  (Read 18466 times)

cd

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FL250 Assembly Thread
« on: August 27, 2012, 07:02:40 AM »
I'm making a thread on this site now to ask questions as I go along with my build.
Motor, drive system, and electrical is next and since I get more feedback on this site I thought it would be a good idea to just pick up here.
Mocked up and fitted rear fenders and it's finally in roller form.

cd


LiveWire

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Re: FL250 Assembly Thread
« Reply #1 on: August 27, 2012, 01:38:27 PM »
Looks like a clean machine.

odypilots

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Re: FL250 Assembly Thread
« Reply #2 on: August 28, 2012, 11:15:57 AM »
It sure does. A nice platform to work on.
The usual 'my two cents' disclaimer applies. :)

cd

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Re: FL250 Assembly Thread
« Reply #3 on: September 06, 2012, 12:49:54 PM »
I am working on my drive system now and had a few questions concerning modifications.
Does anyone know an alternate way to get in touch with BIGHEAD besides PM?

I have some new parts and want to see if this will work for what I want to do...

Drive Clutch: "Model 700" 300704A (Use .96 TW Belt)
Driven Clutch: "Model 500" 301768A (Use .92" TW Belt)
Belt: Marshall "HT1110" 0811-288 (.92 TW Belt)

Stock Odyssey 10.25 Center Distance from Drive to Driven.

This Driven Clutch has a smaller diameter than the stock Driven Clutch...will I be fine?

Sorry for the dumb questions...I just don't know.

cd

Here is some specs on my driven: http://www.odysseypilot.com/index.php?topic=3876.0

LiveWire

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Re: FL250 Assembly Thread
« Reply #4 on: September 06, 2012, 01:28:07 PM »
A smaller driven will increase your speed. One thing you might look at as well is using the .96 TW belt. What that will do on the driven is make the outer edge of the belt right outside the sheaves at idle. Although not common when that clutch was designed, it is common today on snowmobiles. The surface area of the belt in contact with the sheaves will still be greater than it is at full shift out. The belt will also have to be longer because the driven clutch becomes effectively larger. On my FL350, I run a wider, longer belt than stock.

cd

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Re: FL250 Assembly Thread
« Reply #5 on: September 06, 2012, 01:48:56 PM »
How do I know what belt length at .96" TW to use with this setup?

cd

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Re: FL250 Assembly Thread
« Reply #6 on: September 06, 2012, 02:13:21 PM »
Wouldnt it be opposite with the driven clutch being smaller in diameter than the stock one? I dont want my belt to fly off.

LiveWire

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Re: FL250 Assembly Thread
« Reply #7 on: September 07, 2012, 07:19:15 AM »
When I figured mine out, I measured how much farther the wider belt would protrude out of my driven clutch. I also measured the degrees the belt wrapped around it. For each belt multiply the effective outer diameter by PI then by the number of degrees the belt makes contact divided by 360. Subtract the new from the old and that is how much longer of a belt to start with. Get a couple belts around that length and see which works best.

The belt will be shorter than the stock Odyssey belt when used with a smaller clutch. I guess I assumed you already were using a shorter length belt and was saying longer as compared to that. You didn't say what the diameter difference was. If the .96 belt in the .92 driven shoves the belt out as big as the stock clutch, then you would use a stock length, but wider belt.

cd

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Re: FL250 Assembly Thread
« Reply #8 on: September 10, 2012, 07:01:22 AM »
Worked on fitting the control cover and electrical this weekend. I had to modify an original "points coil" bracket to accept the cdi style coil and box. Planned to get my stator and flywheel in but have missplaced my stator screws/hardware.

cd

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Re: FL250 Assembly Thread
« Reply #9 on: September 10, 2012, 07:13:30 AM »
I'm still not sure on the decals, but if I stay with them I'll design some rear fender ones to tie in the "FL250 E" or "FL250 R" to the mix similar to ones the FL350 models used. Should be something new and fun...

cd

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Re: FL250 Assembly Thread
« Reply #10 on: September 10, 2012, 12:01:55 PM »
My motor is built and almost ready to install, and now I'm having second thoughts about staying with air-cooled.
Here in Texas we are in the triple digits alot and rarely have cool days except for late in the year.
Does anyone think I will run into overheating issues? I know the FL250 is a sitting duck when being drivin for extended periods.
How easy are they to heat up?

odypilots

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Re: FL250 Assembly Thread
« Reply #11 on: September 10, 2012, 08:07:21 PM »
Doesn't it suck when you can't find some parts of a dis-assembled thing? Happens all to often around here.

No experience with the 250s, but the most important thing is the carb jetting. A lean mixture even in cool temperatures will burn up the top end. 100+ degreesF will add to need for a proper mixture. I got so skittish with my 350, I was rejetting every 10 degreeF change. That's changing between morning and afternoon rides the same day, and stopped melting pistons. Until I would get lazy, that is. :D And because the performance loss of rich, I tended to leave it on the lean side. :-[

Water cooling, properly set up, is a good thing. Over cooling is possible, but with our engine location, rarely seen.
« Last Edit: September 10, 2012, 08:18:37 PM by odypilots »
The usual 'my two cents' disclaimer applies. :)

cd

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Re: FL250 Assembly Thread
« Reply #12 on: September 11, 2012, 06:45:39 AM »
Thanks odypilots.
I'm going to look at a "Rand" head and a kart style radiator that can handle the 250cc motor.
Is it more common to run it "thermo......" or run a small water pump?

LiveWire

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Re: FL250 Assembly Thread
« Reply #13 on: September 11, 2012, 11:22:39 AM »
You do not need a pump if the radiator has vertical tubes with the tanks at top and bottom, the bottom of the rad connected to a low point on the head and the top of the rad to a high point on the head. I made a couple water cooled heads for 250s years ago. They didn't sell well due to people not wanting to put that much money into their machine. The DG heads were sought after since it helped with cooling, but did not need a radiator. I was just looking at that the other day thinking of how to make an air cooled head with large fins.

cd

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Re: FL250 Assembly Thread
« Reply #14 on: September 11, 2012, 11:32:58 AM »
I would love to have a DG head, but the only ones I see come up have domes in bad shape and cost an arm and a leg in poor condition.
Will a typical water cooled Rand head be benificial? I just dont want to burn something up right out of the box.