Author Topic: Is there Any Need to Make a FL350 Water Cooled?  (Read 5758 times)

rdc500

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Is there Any Need to Make a FL350 Water Cooled?
« on: January 19, 2012, 08:57:19 PM »
I have a fresh rebuilt fl350, does anyone see a good reason to spend 400-500 dollars on a water-cooled adapter?

LiveWire

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Re: Is there Any Need to Make a FL350 Water Cooled?
« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2012, 11:30:41 AM »
A completely stock machine should not really need to be water cooled. You can get one hot enough to hurt it, but have to work pretty hard at it. This is assuming everything else like jetting, piston and cylinder prep is right.

hoodlum

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Re: Is there Any Need to Make a FL350 Water Cooled?
« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2012, 12:36:57 PM »
I ran a 350 in some pretty hot temps without any problems...It was stock,and had it jetted on the rich side....I did end up installing a fan to blow air over the engine so when my daughter was putting around it wouldn't get hot,but as long as it was kept at a decent enough speed to keep air moving over the engine,it was fine....
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LiveWire

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Re: Is there Any Need to Make a FL350 Water Cooled?
« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2012, 11:16:43 AM »
I just made a change recently, but I believe cutting a window in the FL350R piston like the FL400R piston has will reduce the piston temperature. There were people doing this way back. I always thought of it as just an alternate way of improving intake flow to cutting the arc at the bottom of the skirt. What I believe the window additionally does is improve circulation of the intake charge. The intake charge in the crank case cools the underside of the piston. When people send me there cylinders to bore, I suggest to them to send the piston as well if they had an engine failure and don't know why. Often, engines that have been modified such as with a pipe will have black burned sludge on the underside of the piston dome. The piston got so hot, the intake charge was actually burning on the bottom of the piston. The sludge builds up then acts as an insulator. So piston crown temps rises over time until you start to lose aluminum. Improving the circulation of the intake charge would prevent the burning and allow more of the intake charge to come into contact with the underside of the piston.

DMoneyAllstar

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Re: Is there Any Need to Make a FL350 Water Cooled?
« Reply #4 on: February 03, 2012, 01:36:37 PM »
If you tune it right, you shouldn't have any problems.  That's why I like tuning with plug chops, an assortment of jets, and an exhaust gas temp gage.  And then set the EGT gage to alarm at some point around 1200-1250 under the melt temp that's in the 1300's.  So you can set it up right, and then you have some saving grace with the gage and alarms.

But if you have nothing telling you something is wrong, you might bomb your engine (air leak, etc).  So get some gages.  I've got an EGT, Trail Tech Vapor (water temp, air temp, speedo, tach, hourmeter), and a voltage gage.  Water temp & tach are the important ones, really.  Everything else is just added "cool-ness".  ha

As for the cool head and radiator setup...I do a lot of trail riding in woods in the summer.  So I wanted a little something extra to keep my head cool when the air is hot and stagnant.  The radiator and moving air provides plenty of cooling, since the radiator fan will cool the water temp down in a matter of seconds.  And I like the security of having temp switches turn the fan on and off so I don't have to babysit the gages.

All-in-all, the liquid-cooled setup and full gages will really help prolong the life of the engine.

Something to think about...if it wasn't an important part of the puzzle, then why did Honda make the FL400R Pilot liquid-cooled??
'85 FL350R Odyssey
'88 LT500R Quadzilla

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