Author Topic: A-Arm Conversion  (Read 2128 times)

puffycombs

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A-Arm Conversion
« on: June 19, 2009, 11:56:54 PM »
Just got my Odyssey a couple of months ago and took it for some trail riding with a big group of us. Had a blast! A few of my buddies talked me into retrofitting an A-Arm on my Odyssey. My buddy has given me the complete A-arm suspension off his 250R he had sitting around. Soon I will have front disc brakes and some a-arms to boot! Can't wait. I will be taking plenty of pics for those interested. I got a good friend who is a master welder. I am going to use the exact dimensions that are on the 250r including that correct angles of all the mounts. If anyone has any pointers slash words of caution let me know.

puffycombs

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Re: A-Arm Conversion
« Reply #1 on: June 22, 2009, 05:07:27 PM »
Just to get an update the A-arm conversion is only giving me problems with the steering aspect. First the new suspension travels way to far for the stock steering rod to work, even if it is extended. Any ideas or PICS!

kawonda

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Bolt on a arm conversion
« Reply #2 on: November 12, 2009, 07:52:33 PM »
I just finished my bolt on a arm conversion. It works awesome. I may start selling kits.

kawonda

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Another pic
« Reply #3 on: November 12, 2009, 07:53:48 PM »
Heres another pic

volksrod21

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A-Arm Conversion
« Reply #4 on: April 02, 2010, 08:57:47 PM »
hay man i have a odyssey and i have been looking for it for a log time but could never find it were might i get it my email is volksrod21@yahoo.com

Adnoh

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A-Arm Conversion
« Reply #5 on: April 05, 2010, 06:43:03 AM »
Kawonda make that kit himself. You should find a link to his email in the for sale section. To solve your tie rod problem you will need to make what is called a bump steer kit/ anti tie rod hit kit. It moves the pivot point future out from it's present location so as the arms move further up and down it does not hit the frame. Easier said than done. Kawonda has a nice set up on his. I do not know how well its works or the numbers but it looks functional. The bump steer is how the front wheels toe in and out change when the arms move up and down. The anti tie rod hit is self explanatory.

As far as the 250 r arm go IF you use the stock geomerty the upper arm is to long  cause to much camber gain( the way the tire tilts in and out whent he arms go up and down) cause the traction to removed for the tire while turnig effecting the way it cornors.  If the upper arm is moved in so you have 1/2" of negtive cambe dialed int then it will be ok. The best thing to do is leave the pivot the same as the 250 r and add to the upper arm an adjustable ball joint so you can dial in the proper amount.