Author Topic: Crank Rebuild  (Read 1356 times)

Shurakair

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Crank Rebuild
« on: May 16, 2006, 07:59:18 PM »
So, after I finally get the stock clutch pulled and the new one installed I take it for a spin.  It still isn't performing as well as it should, so....  I finally do a compression test.  And the results?  A whopping ~70psi.

So, I decapitated it.  Pulled the head and cylinder.  Its all stock.  I don't think the previous owners ever rebuilt the top end.  No problem, I've rebuilt the top end of my other FL350 (with lots of help from Livewire) and it runs great now.

My other FL350 didn't have many hours on the entire machine so the bottom end didn't need any attention (or at least I didn't give it any at the time).  However, I believe the "new" one does.  I'm having a little difficulty understanding the tests required to determine if a rebuild is necessary.

Without taking the bottom end apart, I can perform the "big end side clearance" test on the connecting rod and its definately out of tolerance.  So, my question is this.  Now what?

Do I have to buy a whole new crank?  Is that even possible?  Can I just replace the pin/bearing/washers/rod?  If so, how do I go about that?  I'm not sure I have the tools to accomplish replacing the rod/pin/ etc.  It seems like if I rebuild the crank I'll have a hard time balancing it.  Who sells kits for that?  (Looks like Randy at OdysseySalvage has a kit, but I'm not sure).  Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Shur

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Crank Rebuild
« Reply #1 on: May 17, 2006, 09:13:23 AM »
You are right about having to disassemble the lower end cases to do a proper inspection. I ,(being a shade tree mechanic, and lazy), just do a push/pull/, twist back and forth and up/down play on the rod check. If there is any play, I would have it rebuilt. The one I had rebuilt, I could twist the piston in the jug, but it had no up/down play. Steve(Odyknuck) rebuilt my last one with a "hotrod kit". I have been beating the hell out of it(high RPMs) in a very built engine for years with no problems. You have to have a crank jig to have proper crank halves alignment. You also need a large press to move the pin. I don't have either so let some else do it for me. He was pretty cheap(I think) too. I don't know, but you may want to check some local shops, EEE, and some others for prices.

My 2 cents,
Gary