Author Topic: squished cracked and smushed  (Read 2340 times)

ludedude

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squished cracked and smushed
« on: September 23, 2004, 08:18:11 AM »
I have a cylinder that has a messed up water inlet elbow. I looked at the service honda parts diagrams and I don't see it listed as an available part. Is it possible to remove/replace these? Procedure?

Odyknuck

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squished cracked and smushed
« Reply #1 on: September 23, 2004, 09:14:37 AM »
The fitting on the engine case on my pilot was broken. i used JB weld and built up a new section  and it has held for 2 years. Or you could cut it of then drill and tap for a brass 90 degree  fitting.

ludedude

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squished cracked and smushed
« Reply #2 on: September 24, 2004, 06:24:37 AM »
I think I'll have to cut it off and make a new one of sorts. It's squished and cracked on the section where the coolant line clamps on. If I try to open that up I think it'll just fall apart and it won't provide a good seal as is, even if I use JB weld on it. There's even a crack farther up on the elbow in the 90? section. JB weld migh t hld that...but I'd have to cut the end spigot off and machine it to accept a new coolant line sleeve....that would distrub the crack in the elbow I think....

Maybe I can machine a new aluminum one up at work....are the exsisting ones taper pressed in? They're not a cast part if the cylinder are they? Any way to get it out...or only like you said, cut it off and then thread it.

Thanks for the help. It'll be a spare, I just like to get it usuable so when the time comes that it's needed, it's ready to go...no good as is.

Odyknuck

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squished cracked and smushed
« Reply #3 on: September 24, 2004, 06:50:47 AM »
I dought its a taper press. A straight press fit at .001" would hold up way better that a taper press fit. It would take quite a bit of pressure to keep a taper fit intact. Taper fits are designed to be held in place and center with a bolt or some type of clamp. They are used when the device is to be removed such as a Pilot clutch. You could try and heat up the head around the fitting and pull it out. Or use a large enough fitting (threaded or press fit) were you could cut the old one completly out with a mill and a boring head. Cutting it off and taping it for a pipe thread is the easyest thing to do.

ludedude

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« Reply #4 on: September 24, 2004, 09:26:59 AM »
I may try and heat and pull it...but I suspect it will be coming to work with me some day to sit on the milling machine ;)

PilotSniper

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squished cracked and smushed
« Reply #5 on: September 24, 2004, 09:38:27 AM »
Quote from: "ludedude"
I may try and heat and pull it...but I suspect it will be coming to work with me some day to sit on the milling machine ;)


Lude, I've got the head from my recent poofkaboom that you're welcome to have. Maybe you can experiment on that one first? Just a thought. Let me know if you need it and I'll ship it up to you.
I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left!  :shock:

ludedude

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« Reply #6 on: September 24, 2004, 10:03:33 AM »
This is the spigot on the cylinder, not the one on the head :(

PilotSniper

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squished cracked and smushed
« Reply #7 on: September 24, 2004, 10:14:05 AM »
Quote from: "ludedude"
This is the spigot on the cylinder, not the one on the head :(


Oops! Sorry!!! We don't read very well down here!!!  :?

On that note, let me see what the verdict is on my cylinder after Bore-Tech gets done with it. If it's not useable and I can't have it resleeved, it's yours!

I'm off to go practice my reading skills with the latest issue of "Cat In The Hat"!  :wink:
I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left!  :shock:

ludedude

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« Reply #8 on: September 24, 2004, 10:23:08 AM »
Even if you were right with the feeler gauge you can still go to a 82mm piston on that one..or re-sleeve it. Do you need a cylinder for your rebuild or do you have a spare ready to go?

PilotSniper

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« Reply #9 on: September 24, 2004, 01:28:21 PM »
Quote from: "ludedude"
Even if you were right with the feeler gauge you can still go to a 82mm piston on that one..or re-sleeve it. Do you need a cylinder for your rebuild or do you have a spare ready to go?


I hope I was wrong and that I'll still be able to use my current cylinder. I'll let Bill determine that for me. I don't have a spare cylinder, so I'll have to buy a new one and have it ported. During this intense project, I've actually resorted to having to print my own money! Wow, these HP printers really do a great job with the reproduction of the new $100 bills!  :wink:
I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left!  :shock:

ludedude

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« Reply #10 on: September 24, 2004, 02:34:04 PM »
I have one that's just been ported and is getting carbide bored next...I can redirect that one to you if you want it.

ludedude

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« Reply #11 on: September 24, 2004, 04:15:14 PM »
I just talked with Neil at ATVR...guess you can heat the spigot area and pull the elbow out quite easily. He's sending one from another cylinder up. Can loctite or JB weld them in. So I may try to pull the elbow tonight during the PONS meeting tonight :)

PilotSniper

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« Reply #12 on: September 24, 2004, 06:19:46 PM »
Quote from: "ludedude"
I have one that's just been ported and is getting carbide bored next...I can redirect that one to you if you want it.


Kewl! Let's see what Bill has to say and we'll take it from there.

Thanks bro!!!
I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left!  :shock:

ludedude

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« Reply #13 on: October 12, 2004, 05:03:18 PM »
Repaired the elbow th other day....quite easy actually. Just apply heat (propane bottle torch) to the spigot on the cylinder.....when hot drop a cold water rag on the elbow...then twist it out with channel locks or such. Insert replacement one with loctite and whola! Done...easy peasy!

PilotHawK

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« Reply #14 on: October 12, 2004, 08:22:58 PM »
Where'd you get the replacement?